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#1
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![]() We have been soaking all the food in Garlic and selcon. The biggest concern we had was not cleaning the tank was the increase in algae. We have a bare bottom tank so siphoning the bottom of the rock debris and wiping the glass down and doing a 10% change every week is our normal routine. Should I pick up the frequency of the changes?
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#2
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![]() We also have Two Cleaner Wrasse and two fire shrimp for cleaning the fish. The funny part is the fish that had the show of ich is the only fish that doesnt go to our cleaning station where the shrip and cleaner wrasse are. All the other fish let the shrimp and wrasse pick at them.
the Hippo is not scratching or twitching and is eating like a pig still. |
#3
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![]() Ready for a shocker? I never quarantine new fish purchases and have never had any serious problems with disease (Tanks been running for over a year now). Perhaps it's just luck *Knock on wood* but the 3 things I do to keep my fish healthy and happy include:
-Feeding an extremely varied diet soaked in a garlic supplement. -Regular water changes and nitrate sinks to reduce water containment. -I also employ a pair of cleaner shrimp and fire shrimp that have set up cleaning stations on either side of the tank. Seems you are doing everything just fine, I would keep your cleaning routine the exact same and you should see the spots disappear nice and fast. |
#4
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![]() If your tang is eating like a champ and not scratching or rubbing then I would just leave it alone. Chances are the tang is being picked on after lights out or is a bit stressed about something. I have a PB Tang that got ich all the time. I tried pretty much everything to cure it but the few spots never went away. It turned out that after lights out my sailfin tang attacked the PB. I got rid of the sailfin and the PB has never looked better.
Another possibility may be your cleaner wrasses. If your cleaner wrasses eat prepared food chances are they are not "true" cleaner wrasses. The false cleaners have been known to bite chunks out of fish. Now for the ich in the tank business. Some may disagree...well...probably most will but this is my opinion. It won't mean much cause I'm not as cool as the other canreefers hehe. The ich parasite is always present in a tank...I don't care who you are...its there. No amount of water changes or lowering salinity or temp. will get rid of it. It doesn't matter what a reefer does, the parasite will always be there. It may die off but it will always come back. Placing the fish in quarantine will cause stress. Cleaning the tank and/or rocks will cause stress. Your best bet right now is to just leave it alone and keep an eye on it. Good luck |
#5
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__________________
Brad |
#6
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Fair enough that 'many' people think this way. I know all of the arguements and you are certainally entitled to your opinion, but this way of thinking is so old school. I'm cycling a new tank. I started with dry eco rock and live sand from a bag that's been on a shelf for some months. There's no way there's ich in this tank. Impossible. If I add coral but no fish and wait 30 days, then even if the ich came in on the coral, without a host fish it is now dead. As soon as I add fish, there is a risk of adding ich, but it is only a risk. If I add one fish that has never been exposed to ich, then there is no ich in my tank. Period. This way of thinking would only be possible if you believed that every fish always has ich and that even with copper treatment you could never get rid of it. I don't believe this. Anyway - just having fun with the biggest myth of them all. I have Ich in my 90G tank and I sure wish I knew any easy way to get rid of it. - Brad |
#7
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![]() In deed, completely ridiculous. I don,t have ich in my tank because I do a strict quarantine. This is a stupid myth.
Though for the ich to be completely gone it must be fishless for 6 weeks. Some ich cyst have been found to resist for 71 days, but that's rare. Still...you cannot be sure if you only quarantine your coral for 30 days that you will be 100% ich free. If you add fish without quarantine with hyposalinity then there is a very good risk that you have ich in your tank. Often it is on the fish gill and it is not apparent and the fish fight it off. It does not mean that a fish that carry ich will show any sign of it, so treating with hyposalinity when ever possible is a good practice. Avoiding ich is very hard since a fish can seem healthy and still carry it. A very strict quarantine on everything is required. |
#8
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Not trying to start an argument but I have to speak up. It is possible to have a tank with no ich, I have one and I have THE ich magnet of all ich magnets, an achilles tang. He's been in my tank for 4 1/2 yrs and has not had ich since the day he arrived here (he was quarantined and treated with cupramine) |
#9
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Natural live rock is expensive because its just that NATURAL, seeded with a cornucopia of bacteria and microfauna that is essential to starting a reef tank. You will have to add it at some time if you want to add coral and if the fish are already in there the parasite is in there also. You seem to be focusing on having an Ich free tank over a healthy established tank, a major error IMO. |
#10
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Doofus arrived here with Marine Velvet and ich and without being quarantined, not only would of died but would of taken the other fish with him, including my regal angel. I am a firm believer in quarantine....but an ich free tank is just a side benefit ![]() Last edited by marie; 01-21-2011 at 11:29 PM. |