1st RO/DI

[Milad]

heating the water doesnt mean using hot water. I believe hot water kills the membrane

whats your TDS out of the tap? Whats the pressure before the RO/DI unit and whats the pressure before the membrane?

if you dont have pressure thing, you can get a pressure meter from homoe depot and throw a T on it wherever you need to measure at. Should be at 80psi from tap, around 60 before membrane.


TDS is high, you have good water going into the drain and bad water coming out of the hose. So you have the waste and good water backwards
If pressure at tap is low then you need to increase it
If pressure right before the membrane is low then your carbon and sediment filters are old

[Joe Reefer]

That sounds a little slow to me, it could be due to in-coming water temp./pressure etc. Adding a booster pump will increase production dramatically. Either way good to hear you are going to use RO water.

[Murminator]

I guess with the accumulator tank I figured when I turned on the tap I would have 2 gallons on hand. I used a line saddle and pierced the 1/4 line between the shutoff and the tap. I'm thinking of changing out the line and t'ing it off so I have better flow. I also think i'm going to have to put in a holding tank on a float valve.....just where to put it

[mark]

Have the 100gpd Aquasafe fills a 20g container overnight (8-10 hrs).

You'll find quite the roll off in rate with anything less than the membranes spec'd temp and pressure. Here's a calculator

[e46er]

i have the same unit and my water pressure is pitiful............it takes about 15 hrs to get 20G

[fencer]

Yes get a booster pump. Not only will it increase your rate, Your rate will go up from 1:8 to 1:4. Most houses in Edmonton do no posess the proper pressures to run a RO/DI unit.

[StirCrazy]

like has been mentiond temp and water PSI are huge factors. temp should be ok right now, but most membrains are rated at 60PSI a 100GPD filter rated at 60 PSI will deverly drop the output at 40PSI, and at aprox 35PSI won't work.

also there are some unscrouplous membrain rebranders out there that are taking the 90PSI rating and marketing them as that. so a 100gpd membrain is realy only a 65 GPD membrain at the standard rating of 60PSI. lots of things could be causing the problems.. the first thing is to get a pressure gage to tell you what you what you PSI at the tap is. don't waist money on a booster pump if tyou don't need it. so make sure that is the problem befor you buy it. then you have to get a booster pump that will supply the rated output at 100 PSI so a 100 gpd needs a supply of 500gal per day at 100 PSI which is 20GPH at 100 psi, or 0.35 gal per min at 100 PSI other wise you won't get full pressure which will drop your output.

My boost pump is a 3/4HP pump with a regualtor which is adjustible as I was running 320 GPD membrain (two 160's) and I only had 40 PSI water PSI int he old house which would give me about 10 gal per day...

Steve