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#1
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![]() Keep in mind they have a $20 or $30 minimum so if you just want the weld-on 16 you will need to get a few tubes of it. And ya they are right behind the post office on avation road.
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#2
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![]() Quote:
By the time you get the glue(s) and the applicator, it should be pretty close I would imagine if they are priced similar to the plastics shop near my place. Also, weldon 16 will leave you with air bubbles. This may not sound bad right away, I mean water is going into the over flow box right... What if the power is out? It will drain to the lowest point, and if that is a small leak in the over flow box, then your going to be draining a lot more than you planned, likely causing a flood, and if the power comes on, the pump will drain the sump trying to get the water to the tank... If you lost enough, you will run the pump dry killing it too, and any heaters, skimmer pumps etc. |
#3
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![]() Unless you're using a jointer on your edges, 16 will give you a more reliable seal over 3 or 4. Also don't use 3 on cast material, only extruded, 4 is actually best for both.
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#4
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![]() Ok, thanks guys, i think i'll go with the 16 because i just used the score and snap method cause i was just making a lid thing that didn't need to b that precise so the edges r not the straightest. And yea i just used some heat and then bent the acrylic but i need the adhesive to put some sides on. Then i was thinking of jsut stoping at pisces and picking up a bulkhead and just drilling the bottom of the overflow. I'll probably just get two cause if this work then i'll make another one for my sump.The one i have going down to the sump ATM is real ugly. Another questoin i have is, what should i use for a siphon tube? (the clear ones at pisces are fricken $14 each.) or how difficult to build the overflow that doesn't use the tubes, like this one http://www.marinedepot.com/CPR_CS_Ov...IOFEB-vi.html? Sorry that i took so long to reply i didn't get a notification that more msgs were posted.
Thanks, Ian |