![]() |
|
#1
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() This is a similar design that I have in mind for my setup. I also have a similar controller (RKE) which can be programmed like the Apex. What I would do is time how long it takes for all of your syphon to break. Program that time, plus about 1 to 2 minutes into the Apex just before the it starts your pump in the sump. This would prevent you from dumping out too much water from the sump.
|
#2
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Seen a really simple automatic water change system (believe was on RC) that was just dual matched dosing pumps running at the same time, one to pull from a reservior, other from the sump. Pumps were on a timer with on times throughout the day to change about 15 litres.
No high flow pumps, no float switches or water level sensors to mess up. Being matched wouldn't confuse a ATO.
__________________
my tank |
#3
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Good idea. Only hassle I think you will face until you get it totally figured out is salinity.
|
#4
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() I don't see anything inherently wrong with the design but (and I don't know if the apex can accomodate this) I'd suggest that you have to push a button or something when you add the salt to your mix tank. That would preclude you forgetting to add salt and having a bunch of fresh water added to your tank by mistake.
The ATO wouldn't cycle again until the button had been pressed, confirming the water for the cahnge was in fact, salt water.
__________________
-Mark 29 Gal Bowfront w/24" LED Lights. DIY HOB Sump (5.4 Gal) MP40. Orange Spotted Watchman Goby, 2 Clownfish and a few hermits. |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]() the only problem that i really see is the build up of deteris in your display tank-i do a 30-35 gallon change every week in my 220,and i have to do it manually just to get rid of the excess deterus
|
#6
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() The only comment I have add to all the other great comments is that I don't really see where you are going to put the plutonium rods.. You seem to have accounted for everything else
![]() |
#7
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() the reason im not using dosing pump is because of the chance of the "drain" getting plugged since the pipes are so small.
Also I could remove the "drain" pump (and one float) then just use the return pump if I could find a 3/4" electronic solenoid. I would put a T connector where the return goes back up to the tank. If the apex controller will let me, ill do a "turn on until float switch is active" or "2min is up" this way i cover my butt twice. I also might put a emergency drain from the SW mix tank to the drain on the other side just in case the solenoid gets stuck open and the SW mix tank overfill. Im just not sure if I can put a bulk head on a plastic container. As far as the return siphon, I haven't decided yet but I might not have under water, might just be barely above the water so i wouldnt get to much siphon. Last edited by Milad; 04-28-2010 at 04:41 AM. |
#8
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() If you do this you will get some (or a lot) of splashing and depending on where your light is possibly lots of salt creep on your light (or edges of your tank). Plus you are introducing noise to your system if you do this.
|
#9
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() That's how I am planning my Auto WC system. If I ever get time
__________________
Dan Pesonen Umm, a tank or 5 |