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Old 03-19-2010, 07:48 PM
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Just planning the auto water change now and then in April the balling chambers The AWC programmed and controlled by the profilux will be as follows

1/4 Ro line gravity drained from sump to basement about 12' below direct to drain, this will be controlled by a solenoid. The ATO sensor will be switched to dual mode ATO/AWC and a second low sensor for the AWC lower limit draw off.

In the coat closet behind the tank will be a large (ish) vat, this will at present plans feed the tank with new water via a tiny power head. The tank will drain and replace 1L twice a day so approx 10% a week.

Due to only draining off 1L at a time the tank will not have to have any equipment down time making the water change process and programming very simple.
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Old 03-20-2010, 12:31 AM
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Hanging wire tails now hidden
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Old 03-20-2010, 01:05 AM
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so you have two vats in the closet? one for new salt water and one for fresh?
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Old 03-20-2010, 04:08 AM
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Looks great! That standpipe needs a painting really bad though...
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Old 03-20-2010, 11:33 PM
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The standpipe will be reduced in size when my blank plates arrive for the overflow, you will then not see it.

First corals are in Courtesy of Pat at www.ottawainverts.com

Tri coloured Ricordea - reason = for a new set up this is an ideal choice for the tank

Bright orange Monti frag - reason = Very hardy and a good indicator of tanks stability

Nothing else will be added for two weeks.

Dosing -

2 drops of FM Bio per day
1ml of Ultra Bak
0.5ml of ultra Min-S

Ultra Life is being dosed also at present due to new fish introduction and the tank being new.

Paremeters

Ammonia = 0
Nitrite = 0
Nitrate = 0.2
P04 = 0.1
Ca = 460
MG = 1410
DKH = 7
Salinity = 1.0249

I will be switching to ProdiBio shortly as it needs to be reviewed by us.

I am not yet dosing any minerals as the draw on the tank is too low to warrant it, as soon as I see a dip in any of the 3 elements then I will set the balling up.
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Old 03-23-2010, 09:27 PM
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Quick update -

New pump fitted now pulling 500L/hr and the pump is "silent" Tunze 1073.02.

Cloudy water = 75% gone

Params as of this morning

Salinity 1.0249
Redox 325mV
pH 8.02
Temp 28c
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0.03
PO4 0.03
Ca 470 (suspect new aragonite causing high Ca)
DKH 8
Mg 1410

All fish settled in and the two test corals thriving.

Big ProfiLux revue update to follow
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Old 03-23-2010, 10:10 PM
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Thumbs up THE ProfiLux Review

Well now the "Aqua Digital Tank Build" is nearing set up completion its now time to move onto the profiLux and show everyone what really can be done.

I thought I would do this step by step guide including software screen shots.

So lets start with
Temperature.

As you can see here all probes including the Temp probe are situated in the sump at a level that the probes will never be completely submersed.



(The white tipped probe is the new generic pH probe that will be coming with all beginner packs as of April, just field testing it)

So here is a screen shot of the temperature software screen. Here you can see my nominal value is 28 degrees and the hys is set to .02 meaning the tank will only fluctuate by .02, my graphing clearly shows this as an even saw tooth over a 24 hours period. Any more switching than this in a small tank that does not hold heat well could cause thermostat bounce, something to be aware of more so with chillers.



So thats the input but what about turning the heater on and off at the set value?

Next step is to program the power bar to control the heater, but first set the thermostat of your heater to 1-2 degrees above your nominal value, this is so the GHL had control over the heater but still allowing for failure redundancy, no matter how good your controller is, it could be made by Nasa for all I care, make sure you have redundancy or 3rd party cut out for such devices.

Ok onto the power bar. here you can see the power bar input screen and I have chosen socket 1 to be the temperature "heating" control socket. The socket is edited to be Temperature 1 - Heater. If you want to also control a chiller just select another socket i.e socket 2 and program that to Temperature 1 - Chiller. The ProfiLux will then turn either device on or off depending on your nominal value and Hys' set.



More about the other sockets later.

So thats the temperature set up. - Next pH
 


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