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#1
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![]() I suspect you are not priming at all, I don't care how you force water in the bubbles have the capacity to remain in the top of the U, drill and tap and install a john guest fitting in the first u tube, fill as normal then draw the remaining air out of the top of the U then submerse the JG tube below the surface of the water and you should be good to go, the principle on this system is sound.
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#2
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![]() ok well i tried with out the cap and nothing drained out at all.
and yes i am priming it,im puting the garden hose in the pipe. check out the video i posted. i also moved the t joint down so it was lower than the water intake and that did nothing. do you think it might be because the pipe isnt glued together? and its drawing in air at each fitting? there are just so many variables unvolved in this lol and ive never made one before so i dont know how to trouble shot the problem..
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GO CANUCKS GO. Woooooooooo!!! ![]() [color=red]14gal oceanic biocube. so far i have, 1-maroon clown, 1-dark orange clown, 1-domino damsel, 1-green chromis, 4-red scarlett hermit crabs, 2-blue legged hermit crabs, 3-margarits snails. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#3
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![]() Please believe me, this is not priming it, you may think it is but it isn't,
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#4
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![]() ok so then how do you prime it? oh might primer lol
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GO CANUCKS GO. Woooooooooo!!! ![]() [color=red]14gal oceanic biocube. so far i have, 1-maroon clown, 1-dark orange clown, 1-domino damsel, 1-green chromis, 4-red scarlett hermit crabs, 2-blue legged hermit crabs, 3-margarits snails. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#5
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![]() OK, Thats a good method of priming. They are using a vacuum pump to remove all the air, but there is a check valve in the line so no air can flow back into the system there.
BUT, what he had there still will drain down untill the inlet becomes uncovered. It will not restart after that. Try what I said with getting the siphon going with cap installed on your T. Then after 15 seconds, remove cap. And I just remembered, If you put another T in where I drew, your going to have to plug both the inlet and the outlet to the sump in order to prime it. Might be just better to do the remove cap method. Priming and making sure there is no air in the line will be difficult
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Dan Pesonen Umm, a tank or 5 Last edited by banditpowdercoat; 03-08-2010 at 10:42 PM. |
#6
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![]() Man this getting difficult lol. I thought this was going to be easy. This just seems to be getting harder and harder by every min. So I don't know what I'm going to do.
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GO CANUCKS GO. Woooooooooo!!! ![]() [color=red]14gal oceanic biocube. so far i have, 1-maroon clown, 1-dark orange clown, 1-domino damsel, 1-green chromis, 4-red scarlett hermit crabs, 2-blue legged hermit crabs, 3-margarits snails. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#7
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![]() It's part of the learning process. The whole concept is hard to grasp when you haven't done it before. By the time you get that working you'll wonder why you didn't figure that out to begin with, which by that time you will never need to make another one ever.
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#8
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![]() Sit down, relax. It'll be alright. I know my ramblings have probibally confused you more than I may have helped. It is a gift I have LOL.
Lets look at this systematically. IN the youtube vid, what you had there worked. BUT, it worked to well in the fact that it lowered the bucket level to much. You did have a siphon there. So, how you started it was good. But, what is needed is someting to slow and lessen the siphon effect when the tank level gets to the T level. That will be the air hole in the cap. You need to plug the cap to get water to start flowing over the tank portion of the pipe. When you filled the pipe and tried with the cap off, it just drained the sump line and the T up to the cap. Why? because the cap was off and allowing air in, it was not pulling water from the tank, over the top and down Now, if we cap it, get the water flowing over the top and down, that water in that line, will remain in there if no air is allowd to enter in the upper U. Once water is flowing and you know its spiphoning from tank, uncap the T. This will let air in and release the siphon that Sump line has. You want the water in the sump line to not be under siphon. The only part that needs to be air tight is the over the tank piping. Uncapping the T should now let the drain slow down when the water level in bucket/tank gets to the level of the T and stop draining. Add more water to bucket, drain should start again. If the over the tank pipe is sucking air through the joints, the drain will not restart. You need to make sure that section atleast is air tight!
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Dan Pesonen Umm, a tank or 5 |
#9
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![]() You have to draw the air out of the highest point.
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#10
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![]() Ya Paul, your right, with a vent hole, it may need a fill hole at the "over the tank" section. When he filled it in the video, with no hole, it got a full suction, and because there was no vent to break suction when tank got to level, it continued to siphon untill the inlet got uncovered and broke the siphon that way.
Steve, it may not start with the cap removed like I suggested because there will not be water in the over the tank bend to start with. This needs to be full and no air in it in order to create the siphon from the tank. Then, the air inlet at the T, that makes it so the siphon will stop, when tank reaches that level, but the over the tank pipe remains full of water I hope I'm not confusing you, I can see it clearly in my head but seeing and describing are 2 different animals LOL
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Dan Pesonen Umm, a tank or 5 |