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#1
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![]() Quote:
Quote:
Only thing is you do not want your RO/DI direct to a float valve, as it will cause excessive wear and ultimately premature failure of the RO membrane. Instead, feed the valve off a bucket reservoir that you only fill once empty. That's what I do anyhow. ![]()
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#2
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![]() Yeah I have 2 float valves wired to a sprinkler valve for my tank ATO. And I also have the sprinkler valve on a timer so it only has power for 2 min 6 times a day. So It has a fair amount of protection. If the first float fails then I have the second and if it fails too then hopefully full water for 12 min a day won't flood the tank before I notice.
The humidifier float is just for my water changing. Like sphelps said, just a safety mechanism in case I forget that I'm filling the can while watching tv or something. I assumed that they were pretty reliable if they're used in humidifiers but I wasn't sure if maybe humidifiers had another safety mechanism that I was unaware off? And I wasn't sure how often these need replaced / have problems but it doesn't sound like anyone has had any? |
#3
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![]() I have a humidifier float valve installed in an 80 gallon Canadian Tire Rain Barrell. It works flawlessly. I get enough water to do changes in all of my tanks at once if I need to. I have no valve and the thing has not failed me in over a year. I do have an auto shut off on my RO/DI system. I currently have my RO/DI supplying water to my 180, 90, 33, 20, and w/c barrell all at once, and all with humidifier float valves. I just fill my w/c barrell at night so i can keep the other resivoirs full for my ATO's.
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