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#1
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My guess would be so the sump can sit flat on the floor... and not perched up higher on "rails".
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180G Office Reef. Started Sept 2012 http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=88894 62G Starfire Reef. Started Jan 2013 http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=89988 |
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#2
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Quote:
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free. |
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#3
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Nope, all the weight is distributed among the bottom frame. No need for a plywood bottom. Similar in design to metal stands.
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#4
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Cool! Thanks for the info. Keep those pics coming!
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free. |
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#5
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I still can't believe that sump cutout was all DIY...that's awesome.
I also love how tall these dang 280s are. Oh and your electrical 'hub' behind the tank is scary haha! |
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#6
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Yeah, that was temporary. The was a partially finished bar sitting where the tank is now. The bar was wired, conveniently with 2 circuits, those where the wires from it.
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#7
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Ok here are some more pics. The tank transfer ended up being somewhat of a spur of the moment decision but it ended up going as smooth as you could ask for. Its easy when you have a fully functional tank sitting 10' away to transfer everything into.
Here's the 125 right before it came down: ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#8
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Yes that is one reason. I knew the space between the top of the sump and the stand was going to be tight. With a 30" tall tank I need a ladder to get into it as it is. The cross braces on the top rail are to keep the 6' lengths from twisting/warping. I read that was a possibility in another stand building thread. I contemplated using a 2x8 for the top rail with no center support, but again that would increase the overall height. I can live with the center brace.
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