Return pump priming needed?

Eb0la11 · #1 08-03-2009, 11:29 PM

Yeah Ive got water basically from the returns to the check valve which is about 4-6 inches above the return pump. So there could be a bubble of air between the pump and the check valve.

I am starting to wonder though if my pump is powerful enough to blow open the check valve.

Ive taken it off and hooked it up to a hose and water blows through it when on a hose.

My pump is a 1584 GPH submersible Eco Plus pump.

Are these check valves rated at a certain gph in order to be opened?

intarsiabox · #2 08-03-2009, 11:33 PM

They are supposed to open very freely as there intent is not to stop water from flowing out only from returning to the pump. Your pump should have absolutley no problem opening a check valve if it is working properly.

Pazil · #3 08-03-2009, 11:35 PM

I am sure this is not the case BUT... are you sure that the back check valve is not installed up side down?

Eb0la11 · #4 08-03-2009, 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pazil

I am sure this is not the case BUT... are you sure that the back check valve is not installed up side down?

No its the correct way. It has an arrow saying which way flow is and that arrow is pointed the same direction the pump pumps the water. Ive also tested the check valve to see if its seized and all that and the check valve seems like it works for the most part. I still am skeptical about it though since it is an old part that I think was in a system prior to mine.

Ive tested the pump to without any restrictions and it pumped fine submerged in a bucket of water outside.

Eb0la11 · #5 08-03-2009, 11:39 PM

So do you think its the 6" pocket of air between the check valve and the pump is the problem? I have no real way that I can think of to get water into that 6" of pipe. Ideas?

intarsiabox · #6 08-03-2009, 11:46 PM

It "might" be the problem. I have never had a submersable airlock on me personally as usually the head pressure in your sump is enough to fill your pump up. You may have to invest in a couple of unions and a spacer to find out though.

Eb0la11 · #7 08-04-2009, 12:08 AM

ya Im gonna go to the store tomorrow and get just a straight pipe to see if the pump can do it when the check valve isnt there creating that air lock. I'll probably pick up a new check valve just for peace of mind too. I'll update here or in my build thread.

golf nut · #8 08-04-2009, 04:27 AM

How are you plumbing the return pump that demands the need for a check valve?

Eb0la11 · #9 08-04-2009, 04:41 AM

The biggest reason I want the check valve is because I have a 30 gallon sump that has its compartments set up to use up 25 of the 30G, roughly, when running normally. So if ever the power went off the return lines and the overflow box would drain into the sump. I have estimated this to be around 20-25G and so that'd mean 15-20G on my floor if the power did go out.

The return is a 3/4" manifold that splits into four 1/2" returns.

kien · #10 08-08-2009, 06:09 AM

Glad you figured it all out! By the way, why don't you keep all these questions in the build thread? Hehe. I'm not saying you can't make a separate thread but to me it seems like it would be great to see it all unfold, the good the bad and the ugly all in one place for easy future reference for yourself and others. Just my two cents :-)