tank dismantle and glass cutting

Dez · #1 07-17-2009, 04:27 AM

Have you figured out what you are going to do with the tank yet? Keep us updated.

Dez

reefnut · #2 07-23-2009, 05:56 AM

well i managed to cut one piece and broke the other.after a trip to the local glass shop im ready to start putting this thing together.toatl measurements are 38"l x 20"h x 22"d.rough capacity is around 70 gal ish.two more question though,1.what is the best silicone to use?so far im planning on GE Silicone 1 100% silicone rubber,thoughts or suggestions please.2.im going to keep the joints as clean as possible and dont plan on any bracing at all, just the glass box, any thoughts on this?the original tank was 8" longer and had absolutley no bracing.the trim was mitered at each corner.thanks.

reefnut · #3 07-23-2009, 07:16 AM

i was just reading another forum and have yet another question about this tank.it is a flat bottom.the botton pane si sitting on the stand and the side are butted up to it all around.how should i sit it.directly on the wood or with a piece of foam between tank and stand?

BlueAbyss · #4 07-23-2009, 09:19 PM

I would place a thin piece of neoprene foam between the bottom of the tank and the stand... less chance of cracking the bottom pane from uneven 2x4s or whatever.

ALBERTA REEF · #5 09-14-2009, 06:41 AM

I have found waxed dental floss (flavoured or not) works great. First remove all the inside and outside silicone (I will pile up and cause the floss to brake). start with the one panel at a time. I like to start with the small side panels. Slowly work the floss through. Keep running the flos through like doing your teeth. ever so often might have to clean the wax out. the floss will brake alot but once you fine the feel for it it cut eazy. Half way down the cut go to the opposite panel do the same. Then you can use a razor blade to slightly wedge the panels. Then continue with the seams. Once the one panel seams are completely cut then carefull rock that panel back and forth. While rocking you can run a razor blade or zip knife alone the seal. then repeat with the other panels. Keep in mined patience it will come apart. One note wear glove just in case. Good luck.

Ross · #6 09-27-2009, 05:10 AM

GE Silicone 1 works great.
I have 2 tanks held together with it and no issues.
A 77 gallon (48w x 24t x 16d) and a 10 gallon Nano.

loveless · #7 10-05-2009, 06:23 PM

I am looking into building my own sump atm. I talked to one glazier who said that the edges have to be polished. Am I being misinformed? He said that the polishing process is the expensive part, as it get done by linear inch.

Oh and btw the glass is 3/8 inch thick, his reason for the polishing in the first place as "its too thick to break cleanly"

So my question
Is polishing necessary?

loveless · #8 10-05-2009, 07:18 PM

Never mind. I was quoted over $1000 for 3/8 plate. So I will make doo with 1/4 inch instead. It was quoted at $300. Slight price diff.

Dez · #9 10-05-2009, 09:16 PM

Hello loveless,

Have you considered just buying a stock sized tank and adding whatever baffles you want in there? Try to find one used if your patient. Or even a new stock sized tank would be cheaper than $300 for the glass right? I have a ton of 1/4" glass for baffles if you need and can help you cut it. My labour is cheap, I will trade for future frags. Just a thought.

Hope this helps your decision.

Dez · #10 10-05-2009, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by loveless

I am looking into building my own sump atm. I talked to one glazier who said that the edges have to be polished. Am I being misinformed? He said that the polishing process is the expensive part, as it get done by linear inch.

Oh and btw the glass is 3/8 inch thick, his reason for the polishing in the first place as "its too thick to break cleanly"

So my question
Is polishing necessary?

Oh yeah, I built my own overflow and it was all 3/8" glass that I cut myself - no polished edges.