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#1
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![]() I would recommend larger then 1" drain pipes......they are really only good for about 300 gph each
here is a good article about it http://www.wetwebmedia.com/SystemPIX...Oneinchart.htm |
#2
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![]() Quote:
![]() Rob. |
#3
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![]() Have you considered just building yourself an external overflow and then "notching" the back panel? Or are you going to build an internal overflow box? The reason for the overflow box is for surface skimming. Just something to think about. With an overflow box you can have a herbie style drain which is way easier to work with in my opinion and much quieter. Hope this helps.
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#4
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![]() A 1" pipe will slip into the bottom of a 1" bulkhead. Just use primer and PVC glue. If your bulkhead happens to be threaded internally on both ends then you will need an adaptor for it.
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#5
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![]() I am running a c2c overflow and love it. Running about 700-800GPH with 1 1" drain spit to 2 bulkheads. I run Herbie style, with 3 1" bulkheads in my overflow. the 2 on the ends are T'd together to a common 1" drain into the sump, the middle 3rd one is the emergency overflow. Handles the flow nicely. And the surface skimming is awesome with the c2c. just a thin film flows over the wier.
Here's a back pic of the plumbing. you can see the overflow on the side of the tank. Its a full length, 7" wide piece siliconed at an angle for the overflow. ![]()
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Dan Pesonen Umm, a tank or 5 Last edited by banditpowdercoat; 07-14-2009 at 01:38 PM. |
#6
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![]() Curious as to why you took the back panel out of the aquarium? You mean you cut the silicone and removed an entire pane of glass?
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#7
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![]() Quote:
I guess I could've just stuck another piece on the inside of the old one, but I thought I might as well replace it. Just had a bit of a shock at the price of 8mm glass though, and the fact that it'll take 3 weeks to order in... |