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#1
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![]() What fails to be mentioned many times when asking a question such as this thread, is the variety of T-5 fixtures.
Notice many of those, {not all mind you}, bulbs in that thread are over driven. Plus some of the fixtures are top end units. Thats a lot of difference when comparing what they will grow and depth penetration. My 6 bulbs fixture is very good, IMO, but when it was on my 90, I think it may have not been enough for sps corals, except for higher up. But then its half the cost of the other units and with bulbs to boot. ![]() Anyways, I would not hesitate to use my unit on a 16in. high tank for sps corals. If I was doing a 24in deep tank and wished to run T-5,s I would use one of the high end fixtures, esp. the models that run the bulbs @ 80w or build my own and use the Icecap do it yourself kits. My friend has a 120g full blown sps tank that and it rivals any halide lit tank I have seen. In defense of halides though, have a look at some of them in our featured section. Some blow your mind sps tanks there. When I look at my friend Mikes 5ft. tank running his three 250,s both 12K Reeflux and a centered 20k, there is no doubt in my mind thats part of the reason for the nice growth and outstanding colors in all his sps So this basically says, more than one way to run the tank, just buy the correct product for your own needs.
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Doug |
#2
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![]() My tank is 27" deep and I run a mixture of M/H & T5 and really like the combo. 5x 250w 14k, 2x 150w 20k & 12x 54w T5 bulb mix. It's the best of both worlds. Lot's of colour, growth and still get the MH shimmer.
![]() Another point about the MH is: are they HQI or single end moguls because between the two of them there is little comparison IMO. HQI all the way!
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![]() Greg Last edited by Snappy; 04-23-2009 at 03:01 AM. |
#3
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![]() Quote:
![]() Steve
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |
#4
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![]() T5 is only adequate for tanks 12" or less in depth. Anything greater than that depth and growth rate for SPS will be less than 1mm per month when using T5s.
Additionally, PAR values measured by meters such as the Apogee Quantum meter measure false high PAR values for actinic fluorescent lamps so the measured T5 PAR values are misreported (over inflated).
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SPS Dedicated 24x24x20 Trimless Tank | 20 g Sump | Bubbble King Mini 160 Protein Skimmer w/ Avast Swabbie | NP Biopellets in TLF Phosban Reactor | ATI Sunpower 6 x 24W T5HO Fixture | EcoTech Vortech MP20 | Modified Tunze Nanostream 6025 | Eheim 1260 Return Pump | GHL Profilux Standalone Doser dosing B-Ionic | Steel Frame Epoxy Coated Stand with Maple Panels embedded with Neodymium Magnets "Mens sana in corpore sano" |
#5
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![]() Quote:
So your saying all those in the thread I linked are wrong??
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Doug |
#6
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![]() *ding ding ding* and in this corner
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#7
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![]() Just a question for Andrew. Not meant in any other way. ![]()
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Doug |
#8
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![]() Quote:
T5 lamps have heavy blue output for a reason, some or maybe most the photopigments in corals respond to light in these wavelengths. Using a PAR meter designed for horticulture may not be the best tool to measure this but it's the best tool we have. However referring to this artifact of PAR measurements as "misreported" completely overlooks the basic requirements of these animals. |