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#1
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Ohhhhh oh ho !!! Tricky, very tricky!! It took me a while to see it, but yes now I see it. The outlet has to be higher than the standpipe if you don't want that to happen.
__________________
-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
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#2
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Or I guess a check valve.. But I myself don't like having to rely on a check valve to prevent a flood.
__________________
-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
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#3
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You've lost me.
__________________
-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
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#4
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Oh ... wait. The question is about whether it's a good idea to use an overflow box that doesn't lead to the sump at all?
Interesting. That seems like it could work. No idea what pitfalls to expect but it seems like a workable idea..
__________________
-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
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#5
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Now that we have it sorted out that I can't have the intake in my overflow (due to using Herbie Style Drain and don't want water draining out and wanting returns on the bottom). Any suggestions on the original purpose of this thread? How does my original hand drawn diagram look? The idea is to have that as a completely separate box.
(I spent way more time than I should have on that mock up diagram of "what if power failure occurs when inlet is in overflow box) |
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#6
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Quote:
Then what happens is the tank settles to the level of the closed loop feed, then the water in the overflow drains to the standpipe height. When power comes on there is no water in the overflow for the closed loop pump and it runs dry....play it safe .... do it right. |