H20 ocean salt is just rebadged Red Sea salt

[Trigger Man]

Originally Posted by Jason McK

OK People who are using it and clam to have tested it. Can we see some numbers!

I had posted the actual numbers that I got with the first 3 buckets I used a while back on here when people were asking about the salt, all numbers fell within the spectrum listed on the pail (I found them to be on the higher side of the spectrum). I just cracked open a new bucket last week, so when I do my next mixing in around 10 days I can measure it again if needed (but if anyone searches old treads on here for the H2Ocean salt you should be able to see my posted results, done with RO water).

[FBNitro]

I can see why someone would suggest that Red Sea Coral Pro and H2Ocean were the same, they have the same bucket, tie strap, bag etc. So, for sure they use the same packaging supplier.

I find that Alk is higher in H2Ocean than in Red Sea Coral Pro (I was using Red Sea Coral Pro until December, then I switched) but calcium is lower in the H2Ocean and I've had to start dosing it on a regular basis. I used to dose alk the day after a water change, now I've got a few days grace before it starts to get into the 'dose now' range.

I've got a 10 gallon Zoa/softy/LPS tank w/no skimmer, so I tend to notice the differences in the water pretty quick due to the frequent water changes.

[Trigger Man]

One thing to remember is that in many industries the same factory is used to produce a brands product, but the products are different in makeup. The factory time is basicly rented for the time used and whatever brand uses the facility still uses their own methods and materials. In this way a factory can produce many different brands of a item, but each brand's item would have some differences as, each item would be made to that brand's specs.

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Originally Posted by Trigger Man

One thing to remember is that in many industries the same factory is used to produce a brands product, but the products are different in makeup. The factory time is basicly rented for the time used and whatever brand uses the facility still uses their own methods and materials. In this way a factory can produce many different brands of a item, but each brand's item would have some differences as, each item would be made to that brand's specs.

Yes and I would be willing to bet (as I said earlier) this is whats happening. I would go even further and say its the same salt with different trace elements added (or not added).

I am going to test to find out. I am very curious about the K+ reading for both.

I looked into it though and the Red Sea Coral Pro salt at Big Als is about the same price as the H2O salt anyways, so it really won't make a difference to me. I will keep using H2O as its been very good to me.

I would actually keep using Tropic Marin Pro if they still had a distributor in North America

[Red Coral Aquariums]

I have emailed D-D about Fauna Marin's accusation:
"Please don´t use H2O this salt is relabeled Red Sea Coral Pro and we have some really problems with the coral coloration."
It will be interesting to put this to rest. I will share my reply upon receipt.
Kevin

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Originally Posted by Red Coral Aquariums

I have emailed D-D about Fauna Marin's accusation:
"Please don´t use H2O this salt is relabeled Red Sea Coral Pro and we have some really problems with the coral coloration."
It will be interesting to put this to rest. I will share my reply upon receipt.
Kevin

Great!

I look forward to hearing back about this.

[Stuart Bertram D-D]

Guys

I can categorically say that our salt is a unique formulation which D-D developed to have in our opinion the ideal parameters for a reef aquarium.

You only have to test the parameters to see that it is obviously not Red Sea Coral Pro rebadged - you can answer this question then yourselves.

We heard this many times in the early days on the UK forums however tests will show that we have:
Lower Calcium at 440ppm
Higher dKH at 9.3
Higher Magnesium at 1340
Higher Potassium at 410

David Saxby http://www.theaquariumsolution.com/d...ys-aquarium-20
spent many months adjusting parameters of salt mixes on his 3500g system adding magnesium, buffer and calcium as required in line with the Balling method.

Once we new where we wanted to go with a formulation we looked at a number of manufacturers, there are only a small number of serious manufacturing companies globally if you take out the small plants where the product is made in small batches in cement mixers.

We decided to use a natural base for the salt using evaporated water from a coral sea as this has the benefit of having all of the main and minor trace elements in the correct balance and more importantly they are homogenous throughout the mix.

As many trace elements are at levels of 1 gm per tonne - how can you expect to mix this small amount evenly through the salt in a synthetic manufacture without tub to tub variations and will these trace elements act as toxins if you get more than natural levels in your bucket or do you just not add them at all?

In the UK the salt has been accepted extremely well and gets excellent reviews from serious reef keepers and this is being repeated in all the other countries that we are now moving into. I have seen some very positive responses on this forum too.

David Saxby has now been running his aquarium exclusively on our salt for the last year and is getting the most amazing colouration and good growth. He can now keep some of the more difficult species of sponges as they are presumably responding to trace elements in the salt that were not there previously.

The only other product that David adds is iodine which he maintains at a level of 0.06ppm. The salt contains iodine at this same level but becomes depleted in the aquarium. Interestingly many salt mixes do not contain any iodine at all.

Side note: On my last aquarium I started to get severe RTN on many corals and this was stopped in its tracks by the addition of iodine as recommended to me by someone on Ultimate Reef forum. The iodine is apparently used to form an enzyme that helps to remove active oxygen from the coral flesh during the night.

David has now stopped the daily dosing of magnesium, calcium and buffer as the H2Ocean salt allows the levels to be maintained through water changes alone - about 15-20% per month.

He still runs a Deltec Calcium reactor however this now only runs at about half the output as the high magnesium makes it significantly easier to maintain the calcium level in your tank.

The only other things that he does are to control phosphate using Rowaphos, control the nitrates using a Deltec NFP vodka reactor and to feed heavily. There are 500 fish in the system and the fine particles that come off the frozen food will feed the corals too.

Hopefully this has answered your question and given you some additional info to think about too

All the best

Stuart

[JDigital]

My choices are limited right now... I just ran out of Aquamedic Reef salt, which i REALLY liked, mixed extremely clean and quick... but the LFS can't get any in for a year... so I am stuck between choosing Instant Ocean, H20 or RBS...

Thinking about going with this H20... but for $5 more i can get the RBS.. something I know isn't a rebrand.


EDIT: Maybe I should have read all the new posts before posting... LOL Thanks Stuart, for posting.