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Old 02-20-2009, 07:58 PM
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Rbacchiega Rbacchiega is offline
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find a threaded (or slip bulkhead) and then get another barbed piece. Might add in total length to the bottom of your bulkhead, but that's the best way. Be sure to use hose clamps
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75 gallon with 20 gallon sump in the works.
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Old 02-20-2009, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Rbacchiega View Post
find a threaded (or slip bulkhead) and then get another barbed piece. Might add in total length to the bottom of your bulkhead, but that's the best way. Be sure to use hose clamps
Ahh yes, ok, I think I know what you mean. Actually I think J&L sells the bulkhead with that barbed part. I just have never used it.
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Old 02-20-2009, 08:06 PM
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+100 on the hose clamps.
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Old 02-20-2009, 08:08 PM
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+100 on the hose clamps.
HAhaahaha! I have never seen a +100 before! Nice.
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Old 02-20-2009, 09:01 PM
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I see alot of people skip the hose clamps, but I just don't feel safe not using them. I use vinyl on all the connections from my pump. It keeps the vibrations down.
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Old 02-21-2009, 01:00 AM
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I see alot of people skip the hose clamps, but I just don't feel safe not using them. I use vinyl on all the connections from my pump. It keeps the vibrations down.
Yup, seems to be a lot of advantages to vinyl for the return. I have never tried it myself, so I figure I may give it a shot.
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Old 05-28-2009, 02:24 AM
schroeder schroeder is offline
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Default other flexible tubing option

I know... it's an old thread, but I too am working on a plumbing system that uses flexible tubing, but not vinyl.

My plumbing will be on a 20 Litre Pico tank with 1/2" bulkheads.
Into the bulkhead fittings I am threading in a push fitting like the 'John Guest Speedfit'
http://www.johnguest.com/part_spec.asp?s=USNC23_S3

These fittings do have some stainless steel retaining 'teeth' in them, but the seal is formed by an O-ring that excludes all fluid from contacting the metal parts, and they are thus rated for semi-corrosive and/or corrosive liquids, but they cannot be immersed in saltwater because then the water will contact the metal 'teeth' that hold the tubing in place

These fittings can also be disassembled (ie: tubing removed) non destructively (difficult to do with barbs) so I can do away with unions, and no clamps are necessary

The tubing will be food grade 1/2" I.D. polyethylene

if you heat the polyethylene tubing in hot water it becomes more pliable and when it cools it retains some memory of the shape you bend it to so you can tidy up your plumbing. It is cheaper than vinyl (at least in quantity it is). Also vinyl is more prone to staining, or having VOC's or other compounds migrate through, but the poly is less permeable, and less reactive (just try and find a solvent cement for poly, nothing works well particularly on HDPE). One other advantage is that polyethlene has a lower coefficient of friction than the vinyl so the flow characteristics tend to be better, particularly if you can find the 'barrier' tubing.

I am nearly ready to start the plumbing. I just finished purchasing the last of the parts. I will try and post photos when I'm done.

BTW. GSP what did you end up doing for your plumbing?
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