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  #11  
Old 01-30-2009, 05:03 PM
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If you can get hold of an amp meter, then you can monitor your lights,pump,ect.
After your lights startup, wait for your bulbs to warm up around 5 min and then check
the amp reading on each lamp. Two hours later recheck each lamp again, if the amp
reading on any of the lamps go up, This mean your ballast is getting weak or short.
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  #12  
Old 01-30-2009, 05:28 PM
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Can Tire currently has UPMs (power monitor) on sale. They kind of look like the larger digital timers that plug directly into the wall. Don't know how accurate they are but they're designed to monitor the usage of your larger appliances. You can monitor different parameters such as wattage, amps, etc. and if you know what your paying per kilowatt hour, you can even input that information. It will then calculate the cost per kilowatt hour of the appliance you have it hooked up to. Less than $20.00
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  #13  
Old 02-01-2009, 01:01 AM
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Ok, so I hooked up a Kill A Watt meter, and with both lights and fan running, I'm sitting at 8.5A draw. And it tripped just as I'm typing this. I wasnt watching it to see if it spiked, but today it's tripping every 15 minutes. I'll watch it next round to see if it spikes. It could be the cheap power bar, maybe I need a better one?
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Old 02-01-2009, 01:34 AM
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So it might just be a crappy power bar. It tripped at 8.6, no spikes, just tripped. Unless there is an intermittent short somewhere? I'll try a third power bar. What kind of strips are people using for 8A worth of draw?
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Last edited by Aquattro; 02-01-2009 at 01:38 AM.
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  #15  
Old 02-01-2009, 05:26 AM
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That's close to 1,000 watts but should not be a problem for a good quality power bar. I'm using a Coralife Digital Timer power bar plugged into a GFCI receptacle for my T5HO lighting (4x54 watts), 350 watt heater, small air pump & a small powerhead. Total wattage appears to be somewhat less than the lights on your bar and I haven't had a problem. The Coralife doesn't have it's own circuit breaker to trip, only an ON/OFF switch. It also has the timer display and associated programming buttons and it is rated to handle 15 amps total.

When you're shopping for that next power bar, just make sure that it's a good heavy duty job and that it is rated for 15 amps. Most of the quality power bars will have this spec on a data plate somewhere, if not on the packaging. Our local Can Tire stocks a timer power bar almost identical to the Coralife. The only difference I noted is that the 4 timed outlets all work the same whereas the Coralife has them split into two day & two night receptacles. That is when two of the outlets are powered ON, the other two are OFF. The 4 remaining outlets are always ON regardless of timer programming. The other difference is price, Can Tire version is less and I think it says 'not suitable for aquarium' use, but I think that's just a CYA statement.
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  #16  
Old 02-01-2009, 04:37 PM
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Thanks Mike. Both of mine state 15A, but trip at less than 9. I'll try a over $10 bar today and see if there's a difference. If not, it might be a short somewhere, I'll have to dismantle my lighting and rebuild. Nice, I gotta fix this in a week, leaving town soon.
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  #17  
Old 02-01-2009, 05:15 PM
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Just a note on the Coralife timer/power bars, check on RC, there is a thread on a house fire caused by one of these, several others have chimed in with similar disasters by them as well.
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  #18  
Old 02-01-2009, 10:29 PM
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I swapped it for the one on my TV, so far, so good. If it trips this one, there's something wrong in the circuit somewhere.
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  #19  
Old 02-03-2009, 12:37 PM
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come get one of mine tonight, I am not using it right now anyways.

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