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#1
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![]() The bigger problem is in the summer HEAT. In the winter you can heat the tank and insulate the sides. In the summer you will definitly require a chiller.
Tom R |
#2
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![]() I can only speak for mine. For the last two summers, mine has not overheated. It is a 3 car garage with only room for one car. We always leave the car outside for a couple of hrs before bringing it inside, as it is the sec. car, it does not drive too often.
Must be the massive amount of concrete that keeps the temp stable, and the garage only gets about 3 hrs of sunlight in the morning. Hey, but things can change esp with global warming |
#3
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![]() you could pick up a used hot water tank, run it on low, use your return pump as the hwt input and the hot line on the hwt directly into your tank ...
Just a thought
__________________
Starting fresh ... 90 gal, 40gal sump, sundial T5HO x 4, 2 x koralia 2's, ASM G1X skimmer ![]() |
#4
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![]() That would work on FW
However, all hot water tanks have a sacrificial anode, made out of zinc, inside of them. A long rod, that is changeable by the way. Just like aluminum fish boats and lower legs on boats, they all have a sacrificial anode. So I don't think that this zinc would be any good for the inhabitants of the SW tank. FYI If you want your hot water tank to last longer, then change out that anode every 5 years. Not everyone will tell you that. My last tank went 20 yrs and longer, I sold the house before the tank went. |