Tank heaters revisited

Parker · #1 12-15-2008, 02:09 PM

If i remember correctly. I believe they have to have a MAX water level on them in order for them to pass Canadian standards. In Canada no heaters are considered submersible, but doesn't mean they can't be submersed. I can't remember where I heard or read it so I could be VERY wrong.

StirCrazy · #2 12-15-2008, 02:21 PM

all submersible heaters sold in Canada will have a "do not submerse in water" some where on them as according to our electrical standards there is nothing that qualifies to be a submersible heater. so yes they are submersible depending on which ones they are, and yes you should always unplug them when doing a water change. so you are both right.

Steve

Snaz · #3 12-15-2008, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Parker

If i remember correctly. I believe they have to have a MAX water level on them in order for them to pass Canadian standards. In Canada no heaters are considered submersible, but doesn't mean they can't be submersed. I can't remember where I heard or read it so I could be VERY wrong.

http://www.jlaquatics.com/product/ht...-+50+Watt.html

Pescador · #4 12-15-2008, 02:28 PM

These titanium heaters work great for me but you have to use them with a controller.
They shut off automatically if they are out of the water and you don't have to worry about dropping a rock on them.
http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategor...tanium-Heaters

my2rotties · #5 12-15-2008, 05:36 PM

My heaters do not like they are sealed enough on the top to chance submersing them. I got bugged at the LFS but still insisted they should not be submersed since they said not to do so... Electricity in water just seems like a real bad idea if it says not to submerse. The last thing the previous home owners said was not to submerse the heaters and he lost a tank full of fish when he did so once by accident.

That would be a show stopper if anything...

Pan · #6 12-15-2008, 05:57 PM

Heaters have to be the most brought up and controversial aspect of have an aquarium, seems the most money potentially lost on one of the cheapest things. I'm still looking for "fireplugs" of the kind on oregonreef.com (I had one sent but it was damaged in shipping, got a refund but no more were available) That combined with an aquadyne controller....or maybe a simple ranco...or maybe a "KevCo" controller

my2rotties · #7 12-15-2008, 06:05 PM

Thanks for the heads up on heaters, we bought them a few months ago before knowing very much. Hubby has to go pick one up today when he gets my Zebra Mantis for my refugium later in that day. I know he will be asking which ones can be submersed since it was never a question before. If the box says don't do it, I follow what the box says. Mind you most men do things and consult the instruction when they have a small hang up.

Getting the "I told you so" from hubby about the heater exploding is one thing. My "I told you so" for zapping my tank of livestock would not be so sweet in the end

brizzo · #8 12-15-2008, 06:18 PM

I use ebo heaters, but I try not to submerse them. The thermostat dial moves on the outside, and of course moves something on the inside; so in my mind that tells me water COULD get inside somehow.

When possible I don't submerge them, like in my main setup. But I have stock tank full of rock, and the heater is somewhere in the bottom

jasond · #9 12-15-2008, 06:42 PM

I use two stealth heaters, 100w, fully submersed and they have given no problems whatsoever, definately happy with this purchase.

mike31154 · #10 12-15-2008, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nazerine

I use ebo heaters, but I try not to submerse them. The thermostat dial moves on the outside, and of course moves something on the inside; so in my mind that tells me water COULD get inside somehow.

When possible I don't submerge them, like in my main setup. But I have stock tank full of rock, and the heater is somewhere in the bottom

I'm with Nazerine on this one. There is a mechanical linkage on most heaters to dial in the desired temperature. That mechanical linkage is the weak 'link' in the case of this type of heater. The fewer electrical cords in the water the better off you are. Standards, schmandards, while I agree they are needed, essential even, I've also seen and heard of sufficient mishaps with equipment certified to a certain standard. When it comes to electricity and water I prefer to err on the side of caution. I keep my heater within the waterline markings at all times and turn it off well before lowering the water level or removing it.

I do have a small powerhead with a partially submerged cord running my skimmer, but there is no linkage involved as is the case with the heater. It's completely encased in epoxy with nothing entering except the cord itself. So I'm putting my trust into the integrity of the insulation and epoxy. If I could figure out a way to raise it a little without running the pump dry, I'd do it in a heartbeat. My safety valve in this case is that it is connected to a GFCI ciruit so that if I happen to become the path to ground for 120 volts AC, the GFCI will trip before there's sufficient current flow to take me out. My other power head is a VorTech which has all the electrical components on the outside of the tank. If you're submerging your powerheads, look at getting the newer 12 or 24 volt DC types when the time comes to replace them. Lower voltage poses much less danger near or in the water. The trend with the newer controllable power heads is DC voltage vs 120 volt AC. Safety is one reason and ease of control is the other.