24G shallow glass box

[LeeR]

Man your tanks sweet! I still drool over it everytime i see it.
thanks for the updated pics. i still do have lots of zoas and chalice coral i would like to keep so i think a 250 would be a bit much.

[LeeR]

oh and im probably going to save my pennys and get a Tunze Osmolator.

[Brent F]

Thanks,

Yea, the 250 is way too much for zoas. I needed to remove everything except the clams and SPS when I upgrade the light. There are no "near the bottom low light" places to put lower light livestock in a tank just 9 inches deep. Everywhere is very high light (even with a 150 watt fixture).

An ATO is a necessity for an open top tank with MH lighting.

[LeeR]

this is true... to bad spot lights are hard to come by it would be cool to do 2 or 3 70W MH spot lights.

http://images.google.ca/imgres?imgur...%3Den%26sa%3DN

[Sebae again]

A lot of Japanese tanks use spot mh lights with both softies and sps to focus on the corals with higher light requirements. Cuts down on power and heat while creating a cool effect.

[Brent F]

I had a 70 W Viper inches over a maxima clam and it was browning out. I switched to the 250 and the colour came right back. I was really surprized a 70 W MH about 6inches over a clam wouldn't provide adequate light.

[Delphinus]

Maybe the spectral output just isn't there in the lower wattages? Interesting, I agree, you'd think it would be OK given how local the light is. I'm betting it's a quality of light issue and not a quantity of light issue.

[Brent F]

Tony, You might have something there. The Viper 70 W comes with a 14,000K bulb while the Aqua-Medic 250 comes with a 10,000K bulb.

In both instances I was using just the MH light (no actinics)