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#1
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![]() ^ Good call.
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I thought I read your entire thread, and I didn't see anything saying that you decided not to move your livestock over. I even went back and looked again. Oh well...not a big deal, at least I don't think so...? Ya, that's a tough call on the fish, but I think the fish are less likely to transfer "issues" than liverock, sand, clams, and corals. Mainly because fish don't have sand or rock attached to them. Being somewhat paranoid myself though, I would likely move the fish to a quarantine tank just for a few days or a week max to kinda clean themselves off before going into the 180g. |
#2
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#3
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![]() The metal mesh used for door/window bug screens would work, less likely to burst into flames than the gauze...
Regards, Nevin |
#4
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![]() Sorry About the mess up with your Lighting. I have not heard a lot of good things about the 14K XM bulbs. Very low Par from what I know. You may be dealing with the revers problem. Not enough light
J |
#5
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![]() Now that would be odd if I had too little light. I have a 250w bulb and ballast for my 180 that I would consider trying, although I'm really afraid of baking my tank.
I read that about the XM bulbs, this is my last XM bulb, after hearing about the PAR problems i don't want to stick with them. On the other hand though I've been running XMs for awhile now, 400ws on my 230g and 175w on my previous cube, and actually saw a lot of growth and nice colors from them. Still though I'm looking for a new bulb for my 180g project. I'll have to visit Sanay's site to pick out my next bulb choice. I think I've figured out my next two tests; 1) the light, downgrade the reflector for a couple of weeks. Its a cheap test to run, I don't have to spend any money. 2) ORP and Ozone, first part will be testing my ORP and then from there either purchasing a ozonier or not. Any other steps anyone can suggest I try? |
#6
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The XM 175W 15K does have sucky PAR so I think we might be onto something: http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.c...&Submit=Search Try an Iwasaki 175W 15K, which has the best PAR out of any 175W bulb on an electronic ballast. For a magnetic ballast, go with the AB 13K. For the record, XM bulbs vary widely in terms of PAR output. Their 15Ks generally suck regardless of wattage whereas the XM 250 10K is the PAR king. |
#7
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![]() So I guess this begs the question about what to do now? Do I switch out the reflector and try to continue with my current bulb for a couple or weeks, or do I order a new bulb and try a new bulb with my luminarc reflector?
An update on the four pieces today; Neon Green Digi - good; polyps out, lots of color on the side that isn't right under the reflector. Less color, and a burnt? tip on the side that is under the reflector. This frag is right on the cusp between being under the reflector and not. Stag - Still looking bleached on the coralites, no polyps Acro - Looking more bleached now, and this time on the top. This coral is almost directly under the MH. Still no polyps out. Cap - Looks a bit more bleached, no polyps. When I go back and look at my previous SPS test batches I noticed two things; 1) I placed all my SPS on the sides of the tank, and I placed them very low. I never moved them, 2) My MH bulb at the time was much older coming to the end of its lifespan. |