280g Inwall

Delphinus · #1 01-20-2008, 06:47 AM

Currently, I'm at a bit of a standstill because the joists have more flex to them than I anticipated. I only have 1/2" of clearance between the framing and the top of the tank, and it appears that if someone walking in the living room directly above, hits the "sweet spot", there is about 1/2" of flex in the whole joists. This means the framing actually can contact the tank. Not good.

I haven't quite figured out how I'm going to solve this. The drywall should take out some of the flex but I'm not sure I want to rely on the drywall to prevent my tank becoming a "load bearing wall."

I might try some cross-bracing, or, I might end up putting a corner post on the right. This second option should work well but it would involve some creativity on the finish to keep it looking good. My main hope is to avoid it looking like an afterthought (even if it IS an afterthought).

Myka · #2 01-20-2008, 07:27 AM

Bummer...not picturing what is happening though...

Pan · #3 01-20-2008, 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Delphinus

Currently, I'm at a bit of a standstill because the joists have more flex to them than I anticipated. I only have 1/2" of clearance between the framing and the top of the tank, and it appears that if someone walking in the living room directly above, hits the "sweet spot", there is about 1/2" of flex in the whole joists. This means the framing actually can contact the tank. Not good.

I haven't quite figured out how I'm going to solve this. The drywall should take out some of the flex but I'm not sure I want to rely on the drywall to prevent my tank becoming a "load bearing wall."

I might try some cross-bracing, or, I might end up putting a corner post on the right. This second option should work well but it would involve some creativity on the finish to keep it looking good. My main hope is to avoid it looking like an afterthought (even if it IS an afterthought).

Put a big red X on the Sweet spot and make everyone who enters your abode sign a disclaimer form. Sheesh some people make things so difficult.

wickedfrags · #4 01-20-2008, 11:50 AM

Hey Tony,

Looks great so far - and ya that is taking your time. One thing I woud recommend is not using that rubbermaid container as a sump. I did this myself initially and was ultimately not pleased with it. Pick-up a used sump, or ever make one yourself either with a new stock tank or a used tank. Dave

Skimmerking · #5 01-20-2008, 12:50 PM

looks goof there Tony. I like the way that you framed in the tank.

Gools · #6 01-20-2008, 01:50 PM

Yah I'm building my tank in wall right now to. Just saw how you did yours, now I want to change it and build it like you did. Seeing down the sides is a really cool feature, especially on in wall tanks.

Did you ever consider having access from the front of the tank? With that depth and height it is going to be fun reaching from the back.

michika · #7 01-20-2008, 02:39 PM

Looks good! Good luck on solving your "sweet spot" problem. It was cool to have seen it with water this past week (skanky or otherwise).

J.Lloy · #8 01-21-2008, 05:36 AM

What where you planning on for return flow? Is there a link for info on Herbie overflow, I hadn't heard of one till just a few days ago?

Pan · #9 01-21-2008, 05:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J.Lloy

What where you planning on for return flow? Is there a link for info on Herbie overflow, I hadn't heard of one till just a few days ago?

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...hreadid=344892

Delphinus · #10 01-21-2008, 05:52 AM

@Greg - Thanks!! I'm started to get excited, it's starting to look like a tank!!

@ J.Llow - I have a Sequence Dart lined up for sump return duty. It might be a bit overkill but so I'll probably dial it back with a gate valve or a ball valve until I can get a frag tank/refugium online (in which case I'll T off of it). Or, if it looks like the tank can handle the pump at full bore, I'll do that.

If you valve a pump back it actually consumes less electricity, so that's kind of a neat trick. More head pressure seems like it should be more work, but it means the impeller turns less fast and consumption is based on motor speed instead of motor load.

A Herbie overflow is one where you have two drains in your overflow. One is an emergency backup, one is the "main drain." The main drain you throttle back with a valve so that the water drains at the same speed as the sump return. The end of the pipe is submerged in the sump, so there's no splashing. No air gets into the drain, and thus this eliminates microbubbles. Plus, it's nice and quiet.

The downside is that it's risky to have a valve on an overflow, if a snail or something gets in there, it could block the overflow. Hence, the emergency backup pipe. If for some reason water slows down in the main drain, the emergency backup pipe takes over.

Here's a link with more info - http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...hreadid=344892