Float Valve Problems

Snappy · #1 05-25-2007, 04:25 PM

I'd be careful of hooking it straight to the sump, heavy danger. I was having problems with my dosing pump in the res staying on because the float valve in the sump would stick so I put it on a timer and now no more flooding. Maybe you can use a bigger res for while you're away and impliment that type of idea. I just use a large garbage can for mine. If you can fill a larger res with enough water to last your vacation that is what I would do. It's worth the $15 at Crappy Tire to be safe.

Canadbis · #2 05-25-2007, 07:19 PM

I am interested to know more about the garbage can method. I am going away and am trying to figure out how to rig a top off system. What else is needed for the garbage can solution?
So far my Ideas are to cut the bottom off an 18L bottle of water and install a ball valve in some tubing so when the water level drops it opens the valve and tops up. but man am I scared to do that

Pescador · #3 05-25-2007, 08:33 PM

My RO/DI is hooked up to a 20g garbage can with a Kent float valve.
The float valve stays clean being in fresh water, if it were to stick you flood the can not your tank.
Then you can use your top up method of choice from the can to your tank. I've been using the Blue-line Tsunami AT-1 but there are others.

Todd · #4 05-25-2007, 08:57 PM

I recognize the possibility for disaster here, but having a 40g reservoir sitting above the level of my sump would put the same sort of pressure on the float valve and would result in the same situation (of the valve leaking), and would have nearly the same consequences as having the RO directly plumbed in minus a few gallons extra on the floor.

I figured this way was going to be easier then the large garbage can method (that's what I was going to do in the first place), as I wouldn't have to worry about raising the can above the sump level, and I wouldn't have to haul a bunch of water across the house (as my RO in in the Bedroom sink and the tank is across the house in the living room). Plus this way I don't have to worry about a hose drilled / siliconed in letting go.

Regardless of all that, I found out what the problem was after playing around for an hour this morning. The seal where the RO line came in was no good anymore, so after taking it all apart and putting on some teflon tape its working well! 5 hours of being hooked up (at full pressure) and the level in the sump is dead on. I am going to turn the RO's 5g pressurized reservoir off and throttle back the input on the RO unit anyways.

Thanks for the info on the shutoff valve / pressure solenoid, Christy and 220G. I don't have the valve but it is something that I am going to look into for the future.

mark · #5 05-25-2007, 10:34 PM

Just a comment/question from the other side (I'm using a float valve made for furnace humidifiers).

How many people out there have had their basements flooded or heard of other people having problems with their furnace humidifier. Seems the only problem I've ever heard, relating to the valve, was is they wouldn't flow.

Guessing there's more humidifiers than fish tanks.

untamed · #6 05-26-2007, 06:09 AM

My FW holding tank is nearly 100 gallons, and it is 3 feet off the ground. Since the water line is JG tubing (really small), the Kent float valve easily holds the pressure.

Nevertheless, I do have a float switch solenoid that will close the line in the event of unusually high water level in the sump.

mark · #7 05-26-2007, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by untamed

My FW holding tank is nearly 100 gallons,

How is the FW water maintained (sealed container, do you keep it aerated, agitated, any concerns of undesirable grow etc)?

TedH · #8 05-27-2007, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mark

Just a comment/question from the other side (I'm using a float valve made for furnace humidifiers).

How many people out there have had their basements flooded or heard of other people having problems with their furnace humidifier. Seems the only problem I've ever heard, relating to the valve, was is they wouldn't flow.

Guessing there's more humidifiers than fish tanks.

I'm using the same system. I tried a Coralife float on my reservior and flooded my basment with R/O water. Since switching to the humidifier float I've had no further problems. Picked the float up at Home Hardware for 10 bucks. You couldn't use this one with salt water because it has a metal pin for the float lever, but since it isn't actually in the water it is fine for the R/O water.

Snappy · #9 05-27-2007, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Canadbis

I am interested to know more about the garbage can method. I am going away and am trying to figure out how to rig a top off system. What else is needed for the garbage can solution?
So far my Ideas are to cut the bottom off an 18L bottle of water and install a ball valve in some tubing so when the water level drops it opens the valve and tops up. but man am I scared to do that

I have my R/O fw going to the "garbage can" res. I keep the stored water aerated with a small air pump and air stones. I have a dosing pump connected to a timer(sometimes the sump's float valve sticks) and have it running to the sump to keep it topped up. You need to figure what the evap rate is and set it up to compensate. You are welcome to come over and take a look in person if that will help. It's a very simple set up.