Why can I not kick Ammonia?

[hawk]

Six weeks is not out of the question to still be cycling. I just finished cycling a qt tank and it took 6 -7 weeks (left a couple of frozen shrimp in a bit too long). Water changes during a cycle are not required and will only lengthen the cycle time.

[Delphinus]

Ordinarily I would agree with you hawk but his nitrite numbers are zero and his nitrate values are climbing. If the tank had not completed its ammonia cycle, it would not have completed its nitrite cycle and there would be a non-zero value for nitrite.

Now, it's possible that the nitrite test kit is giving a false negative, but IMHO this is less likely than an ammonia test kit giving a false positive. If the ammonia reading is non-zero but low (ie. close to zero) and unchanging over a long period of time, I would distrust that reading. If it is changing then it is likely valid, but unchanging is suspect, espescially if nitrite is zero.

FWIW some people will start up a new tank with existing rock and existing water and start stocking it the next day. Basically If you have the appropriate mass of rock a cycle can be very quick. With over 100lbs of rock (so over 1lb/gal), with 2/3 being cycled rock already .... I think it's a pretty safe bet that his initial cycle is done.

Tell you what, here's a real acid test, throw a frag of something like GSP or zoos or something in the tank and see how they do. If there's ammonia they won't open up, if they do open up though then it's probably safe to start moving other things in there.

[Quagmire]

I talked to Greg a couple weeks ago and he mentioned these readings.At the time I thought perhaps it was a smaller cycle starting due to bacteria die off.But now with no change I'm leaning towards the test kit also.At the worst a good test kit will strike one possibility off the list.

[digital-audiophile]

Well guys, it seems that I may indeed have mud on my face

I tested the tank again tonight ... 0.5 ammonia, I tested my existing cube... 0.5 ammonia, I tested a rubbermaid bucket I have had mixing new salt water in for the past week .. guess what 0.5 Ammonia. I did test my fresh water source and it was 0.0 .. I did this with two seperate test kits and came up with the same results so I agree that I am getting a false positive and that the SW is throwing off the tests. I used to read zero on my old tank with the same kits but that was a long time ago that I tested it. The kits are ~1 year old so that could be why.

Oh, they are Aquarium Pharmaceutical test kits.

I tested the params on the rest of the tank and found the following :

Nitrite : 0.0
Nitrate 20
PH 8.2
KH 179
Calcium 280
Iron 0.0
Phosphate 0.0
Salinity 1.022

I need to try to bring my phosphates down and calcium up. This is going to be FOWL and maybe add some zoos or shrooms thats about it, I want to eventually ad some non reef safe fish (copperband, flame angel, coral beauty) so I don't want to risk and coral that may get nipped at. Now I guess I can bring my fishies over and close down the cube. Three in total - Perc Clown, Sixline Wrasse and a small Purple Tang. I have my skimmer/sump running full time now so I wouldn't imagine this should be too much of a bioload to add at once.

[Delphinus]

Not sure about the coral beauty but the flame and the CBB are usually pretty good reef citizens. The most likely things to get nipped at will be LPS and clam mantles. I have a CBB with clams and it's fine, dumb fish only eats mysis. Only reason I don't have a flame angel is that I have a potter's angel and I feel it's a bad idea to have different pygmy angels except for in maybe larger tanks (which at 75g mine is not). Anyhow I guess this is neither here nor there but just thought I'd share my thoughts on that - those fish you want could be just fine in a reef. As always there are exceptions but there's reason enough to hope for the best.

As for the testkits .. yeah, not surprised. My suggestion, use up the AP testkits for now, but when they're done, get something like Salifert or Elos. For phosphate there's also now the D-D/Merck test kit, which is pricey but gives you a nice precision on the low range.

I only test for nitrate, phosphate, and alkalinity (use a test kit that measures in meq/l - more on that later). If I'm really crazy I'll test for Ca but I usually don't have to, since I use a calcium reactor, and if it's dialed in right, Ca will usually be a number pretty close to 100 times the number of the alkalinity (if expressed in meq/l). Ie. if my alk is 3.1 meq/l dollars to donuts I'll find my Ca is 310. This is only when things are dialed in right though, if things get out of whack it's necessary to track both.

Or if you want to get really crazy, you can get a nitrate monitor and a phosphate colorimeter, basically a digital reading of the value. Pricey though, only go this route if (like me) you find yourself absolutely hating the process of deciding which colour of pink matches the colour of pinks on the chart.

Most Ca and Alk test kits are of a titration basis which is nice, which means you count the drops until you get a colour change (usually from pink to blue). Hard to miss the transition and you have a definitive volume value which in turn gives you a number you can have a high degree of confidence in, unlike trying to guess at colour matching.

And as for pH test kits ... I haven't met one yet that I didn't hate. If you ever decide on a calcium reactor, forget trying to dial it in with a test kit, you'll never do it. Invest the $100 in a pH meter or controller .. it will be one of the best $100 you spend on the hobby.

[digital-audiophile]

Tony, thanks for all the advice. I really appreciate it. You learn new things every day, and I think we can all learn from each others mistakes

I'm not too worried about corals in this tank as I plan on doing a 30'ish Gallon tank just reef only with 250W MH just for show

I'll be asking for your help drilling that puppy Most likeley after the baby though, Glend is Due May 14th so the little squirt could come any day now.