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#2
01-21-2007, 04:27 PM
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Skimming does not remove nitrates per se, but does remove the dissolved organic compounds (DOC) that eventually decay into nitrates/phosphates. As a result, skimming will PREVENT nitrate accumulation.
5ppm of nitrates isn't bad for an LPS, softies, clam tank. Softies actually seem to better with slightly "dirty" water and clams actually like some NO3 in the water to feed upon. A skimmer, while not absolutely necessary, is good to have because it makes controlling DOC a simpler task. 
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#3
01-21-2007, 04:36 PM
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sorry for me not explaining properly, i do have a euro reef rc135 skimmer but the problem i have is a sick naso for no reason, started a thread earlier, and red slime that i cant get rid of . just starting to get fed up. so i am trying to find reasons for my reef failure.dropped down my feeding of fish and corals photo period is 8 hrs. water changes 20% every 2 weeks with ro water. had a 75 gal before no problems started up 155 gal and nothing is working.
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#4
01-21-2007, 05:02 PM
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Well the fact that you have red slime (probably cyano) and a sick fish indicates that something is off somewhere.
Can you post all of your readings - ammonia, nitrates, nitrites, calcium, alk/dkh, magnesium and Phosphates. You may want to take a water sample into a LFS to test just to compare readings. What brand of test kit are you using? Are they old or new? How about your lighting - old bulb? It may be totally unrelated to the sick fish but the cyano is finding nutrients to feed on or it wouldn't be there. You said you have cut back on feeding and I would like to suggest you cut back LOTS unless you have some sensitive fish that requires frequent feeding. In most cases you are just fine feeding your tank every 2 to 3 days (unless like I said you have some fish that are delicate) You may want to try Chemiclean or red slime remover (I have never used the RSR) as they do seem to work as long as you follow the directions. This will get rid of the red slime but unless you find out where it is getting the nutrients/phosphates to feed off of it will just come back again.. I have never had a fish sick the way you describe in your other thread however you cannot hurt it by, as suggested raising the temperature, and finding out what the problem is with your water. Good luck and HTH.
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#5
01-21-2007, 05:31 PM
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amonia o , nitrates 5ppm , nitrites o , ph 8.0-8.1, calcium 450 , dkh-10, just bought new no2 and ph kit salifert, ca and alk are aquarium pharmacuticals. dont test for mag because i have never had a problem controlling calc or alk. as for phosphates traces.just replaced middle halide 2months ago to 14k from 10k the other 2 are 10 months old 10k. as for cyano remover i am a firm believer in riding the problem instead of masking the problem as you said. it will just come back.
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#6
01-21-2007, 05:55 PM
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Hmmmm....All levels actually look pretty good. It still wouldn't hurt to get your LFS or a friend to test your water just for comparisons sake. Phosphates is a really hard one to test for unless you have a lab grade test device that tests for both organic an nonorganic PO4. Quite often you will get a 0 reading because the algea is consuming it all and "thriving"
 I would replace the 2 10mo old bulbs as they are definately at the end of their life - this may help. Also cut way back on feeding - continue with your water changes and maybe even jump it up to once a week if you can. Your tank is still fairly new and could just be going through the normal process of finding a balance with the nutrient export/processing. I know you moved things from a 75g but if you added new rock/livestock it has to find that balance all over again. You might also try running some carbon either passively or in a canister filter. Use a good brand of carbon and change it out every week. Do you have any foam anywhere? If you do I would suggest either rinsing it thoughly every day or just ditching it altogether.
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