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#1
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![]() yeah i thought that was about right from the cloudy water. way, way too soon for corals or inverts. you want to wait for your live rock to cycle, and then a good week or so (at the very least) before adding inverts. too many toxic compounds and dramatic shifts in water chemistry to support anything sensitive. a little late for that advice now, but now you know for next time!
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#2
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#3
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![]() It dosent look like there is much to cycle, there is only one small piece of live rock. Do yourself a favor and get a lot more *live* rock for that tank and some better lights, then you will be going.
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#4
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![]() There's 3 pieces in there, 1 with coraline algae on it, and the other two with some attached randomness.
I have 1x15w 65k and 1x27w 65k w/ a 24w led bulb added on. I figured that would be more than enough for a 5.5g tank, that's pushing 8.4 wpg and it's a very shallow 5.5g tank. I may add in s'more live rock, but I thought this would be a good start now |
#5
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![]() Sorry man but that piece in the middle looks tuffta rock from a fw setup.
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#6
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![]() Ah - Don't think it is. Anthony (seahorse_fanatic) had it in his sump with a ton of other LR.
I need that man to chime in, ANTHONY!!! ![]() |
#7
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![]() I have stared a few tanks by transfering water and LR from another reef and I don't really see a reason to wait a long time. If the water and rock has been in a reef for the past X years then what exactly needs to cycle? The glass? Because that is all that's changed.
That is going to be a real nice little tank. If I were you, I would top up the water, add some more LR, and get some better lights. No one uses the "watts per gallon" rule anymore because it doesn't really tell you anything. What kind of lighting do you have? It looks really dim. The watts per gallon rule suggests that reducing the amount of water you have in your system somehow makes your lighting stronger... it doesn't. Some animals have minimum requirements, and those minimums don't change just because we decide to put them in a nano tank. I went down the same path you're going down and I know that some of those "getting started" articles online have some really bad advice. When I first started my 2gal nano, I had a 13w power compact (I thought, 'hey 6.5 watts per gallon'), but it became apparent that it wasn't even enough light for my zoanthid corals. I switched to a 70w metal halide which sounds like a lot in watts-per-gallon, but it's still fewer watts than a houshold lightbulb and really isn't a huge amount of light, compared to what these animals are used to in nature. I'm not saying that you need a halide or anything like that, infact maybe all you need is better reflectors, or high output bulbs instead. The best thing is too find out how much light your livestock requires. A frogspawn coral would need as much light under 5" of water in your nano as it would under 5" of water in a 2000gal aquarium. Hope this makes sense - I can be confusing sometimes. - Chad
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Returning to the hobby after an eight year absence. Last edited by Fish; 10-24-2006 at 02:10 AM. |
#8
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![]() Yes, I told him about taking it slow but everything is from my established tanks & the live rock was fully cured in my sump & then transported in a bucket filled with 5 gallons of saltwater from my reef tank. The rock was out of the water for a couple minutes max. He has prepared extra water & is testing parameters. He also knows that if something happens, he can bring the frags back & recycle the tank & wait the normal period (like I originally advised).
When I set up my wife's nano, it was also done the same way without going through a cycle so this method was "tested" prior to Mr. Too-Excited came over. Not the best way (rushing like this) but we've discussed what to do already. |
#9
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