Return Bulkhead so deep?

Squiddy · #1 08-11-2006, 02:42 PM

I had no idea Mike customizes the tanks.. I assumed it came from the factory like this. I will definitely need to take the standpipe out and cut it down I guess. I supposed I wouldn't have to glue the coupler on when I join it back together would I? If I left it unglued, then I have the ability to adjust the length at any time.

I had thought about putting a check valve inline with the return but have heard that they do fail and so I'd rather fix it at the output. Would locline seal enough to prevent water from seeping back down the return line? Or would I have to put solid PVC up to the surface and then run locline from there?

I have been only turning on the return pump when I get home from work in the evenings because I'm scared something is going to go wrong. I'm glad I put that ball valve in there.

Jason McK · #2 08-11-2006, 02:59 PM

I would give Mike a call. The overflow teeth do not look like what usually comes out of Mike store. Maybe he could redo the overflow box and bring the return up over the overflow

J

hawk · #3 08-11-2006, 03:29 PM

Put a tee on your return with a ball valve. The straight part of the tee goes to the tank the other part of the tee goes back to the sump. Put the valve on the pipe going to the sump. This way you can control the volume of water going to the display tank without restricting your pump.

BMW Rider · #4 08-11-2006, 03:44 PM

You could raise the level of the return by adding a couple of elbows after the bulkhead. I concur with Hawks suggestion for reducing the flow to the tank. Lowering the standpipe will likely not solve anything as the flow is simply exceding its capacity. You would have to have a larger standpipe if you want to open up the flow more.

Squiddy · #5 08-11-2006, 04:31 PM

Thanks again for the replies. I don't think I am going to go and redo the overflow box now... I went through enough hell getting the tank set up at our current house (floor was very uneven, rubbermaid containing livestock while tank was being leveled started leaking all over the carpet etc).

I am going go try lowering the standpipe first to see what that does. When I had the pump opened right up, I could look down the top of the standpipe and it sure looked like there was plenty of room for that much water going down there. I think the problem is that more room is needed above the opening to the standpipe in order for that much water to drain due to surface tension probably?

I will also take your suggestions and put a couple of 45's or 90's on the output of that bulkhead to bring the line up to the surface before attaching any locline.

We'll see how that goes I guess. Thanks again guys.

hawk · #6 08-11-2006, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Squiddy

I am going go try lowering the standpipe first to see what that does. When I had the pump opened right up, I could look down the top of the standpipe and it sure looked like there was plenty of room for that much water going down there. I think the problem is that more room is needed above the opening to the standpipe in order for that much water to drain due to surface tension probably?

But is the flow through the overflow teeth large enough to keep up with the pump? Does the level drop when the the stand pipe is removed and the pump is fully opened up?

Squiddy · #7 08-11-2006, 07:10 PM

I will have to give that a try. I know that the level in the overflow box and the level in the tank always stay the same. The pump I have should be putting out about 500gph at 5ft which doesn't seem like that much to me. What is the ratio for tank size to amount of water turned over in an hour again? I guess I need to do some more research... just haven't had time.

smellsfishy · #8 08-12-2006, 05:54 AM

some solutions i came up with for my SeaStar.
it's a terrible picture but i made this 45degree T goes into the threaded 90 which threads into the bulkhead. It's hard to tell but it slopes upward to about 2" below the water surface . it sucks back less water this way. as i have a hammerhead for a return i had to keep it this low or the air syphons from the surface but with your flow amount you could have it higher, you may want to consider lockline, instead, note the 45degree split directs the current into the corners as well.
you will also want to put some kind of silencing on the standpipes, i designed a stockmen style cap for these standpipes, if your interested i can send you a pic.
as for the overflows i found the teeth slots to be no where near capable to handle the flow i wanted but i had already stocked the tank so i had to break them off and replace with leaf gaurd mesh (guttergaurd) from Rona, it doesn't look great pro but it works really well, if you leave some teeth in to support the mesh.
hope this helps