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#1
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![]() If you go with a closed loop,you need around 300-400 gph flow out each outlet.So say you want 2 in the front 2 in the back and 1 on each side.(Thinking manifold here)You will need a pump that will put out around 2000-2500 gph after headloss.Myself,I like the idea but it takes a good sized pump to run it.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issu...2003/short.htm Here's a link on how to build a manifold
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No matter how hard you try, you can't baptise cats. Last edited by Quagmire; 07-24-2006 at 01:16 PM. |
#2
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![]() You may want to reconsider such a large pump for your return too. I had a Mag 36 on my tank at one point and I wasn't happy with it. The slower the water is as it travels through the sump, the better chance your filtration equipment has at polishing the water, such as your skimmer, etc. If you can go with another closed loop or add a Tunze or two like the other guys recommended you might be a little better off.
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Jason Last edited by Jaws; 07-24-2006 at 03:22 PM. |
#3
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![]() quagmire thanks for the link that is awesome, i havent read it over yet but i definitely will. what is the amount of pressure loss i will lose with the one dart on the closed loop. what about a barracuda it is 4500gph, but is it quiet?
thanks for the input jaws, see i've never run a sump before so i really appreciate the advice, after i read your input i had an idea, is it possible to still use the dart for the sump but to split it, as to use half the pressure to run the sump and the other half to supply returns? |
#4
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![]() i was at the LFS this morning and mark introduced me to the ecotech vortech pump. i'm lovin it. i'm thinking of cancelling the closed loop system and running 2 of these pumps possibly 3, they rock. they are magnetic with the motor on the outside of the tank they have controllable flow and when they come out with the controller it will wirelessly control 10 of these pumps. anyone have experience with these pumps?
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#5
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![]() Vortech are new,but we have been waiting impatiently for them.Dont know if anyone has one yet,but from what a few of us have read they look fantastic.
As for head pressure loss,there are alot of variables to consider.The head loss for your pump itself(this should be on the box,marked for differant hights)The length and diamiter of your pipe,and the amount of elbows and outlet fittings.There should be a headloss calc in our library I think.I'll take a look around to see if I can find it. Ohh and also,I agree that you dont need alot of flow from your takn to the sump if you go that way.But you do want enough flow to keep the crap from settling.Unless you go BB sump and clean it out when it gathers up.I have 800 GPH through my overflow.( even thats more than is needed) And a second pump in the sump to keep everything suspended,so the skimmer can take it out. Couldn't find the calc in our library,Im sure its thre somewhere.Here another link. Just figure out what pump and the legnth/diameter of the pipe you are useing,and add in the corners. http://reefcentral.com/calc/hlc2.php
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No matter how hard you try, you can't baptise cats. Last edited by Quagmire; 07-25-2006 at 12:43 AM. |
#6
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![]() i'm debating on going with the (3) 250w unit instead of the (3) 175 w unit. is there a real benefit in upgrading?
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#7
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![]() If you look at my recent posts you'll see pics of my tanks & the tunzes...
As for advantages to 250W lights, you will be more or less unlimited as to what kind of corals you want to keep, whereas 175W will mean you will only be able to keep less light demanding corals. Personally if it's feasible I would go with the 250's.
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135G Mixed Reef. Bullet 2, 25 gal refugium, 2 X250W MH + 4X 96W PC\'s, DIY Calcium Reactor, Coralife 1/6 HP Chiller, Phosban, Tunze, 2 closed loops & SQWD\'s, Seios, Coralife 4 stage RO/DI & a bunch of other expensive gadgets... I may never retire, but I'm gonnahavahelluvanaquarium! |