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#1
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![]() LOL Reef Soup looks and smells worse than u'd think
If your going to run 2 under sized heaters they better be small I had 2 100w Ebo heaters in my 50g + 20sh sump one of the heaters stuck on and with the lights it fryed my tank. If u dont want to spend the $150 on a controller you could put your heaters on a timmer so that the heaters turn on and off every 15 min. thats what i do on my frag tank 20g at home it works good with very little temp swings. this is just my rambling i don't mean to flame the thread ...its just a real bummer to come home to a fryed tank (i hope this never happens to anyone) |
#2
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![]() some fluctuations in temp are normal in nature, as well as salinity. I think if you let your tank be too steady in temp/sal, when/if something does happen they are just way to sensitive. My tank temps and salinity varies quite a bit and everyone is always happy as can be (SPS, LPS, Zoa's and Anenome). Of course, I am not talking about when a heater gets stuck on and it jumps 10 degree's. Oxygen diffusion is another matter all together when it comes to temps.
Perfect stabilty is not always where it is at, you do want some movements but not wild fluctuations. Some fantastic data can be viewed here http://www.nodc.noaa.gov/GTSPP/gtspp-home.html and http://www.nodc.noaa.gov/dsdt/oisst/index.html BTW, you can get that RANCO controller much cheaper. You do have to wire it on your own, but for most people it should not be an issue to do. Here is a good link to a supplier who will ship to Canada. http://www.allthermal.com/Merchant2/...&Category_Code
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Chad Last edited by Chad; 02-24-2006 at 11:39 PM. |
#3
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![]() im actually going to be selling my ranco controller soon when i upgrade to a computer controller.
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Given sufficient thrust pigs will fly just fine. 90 Gallon LPS tank - Challice, Acans, Favia, Diplo and Zoos 125 Gallon SPS Coming Soon! |
#4
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![]() a temp controler is a good idea but they are useless unless you have a chiller also. also event a ronco has a dead band so you will still get a 1 or 2 degree swing. a couple degrees is fine, mine at onepoint used to swing about 6 degrees and I never had an issue.. now with a chiller and a heater I only get about a 1 degree swing.
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |
#5
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![]() Why is it useless without a chiller?
Say I have 4 heaters and hook them up to a controller, would that not help keep the temperature more constant even without a chiller? |
#6
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![]() Most controllers have a percentile range of accuracy. Say +/- 1%. Unless you are willing to pay megabucks for a laboratory grade controller or thermometer then allowing a 1 - 3 degree difference should be acceptable. If you are using a digital thermometer then make sure its a good one and have it calibrated or test it against a calibrated reference.
Doug Last edited by seashells; 02-26-2006 at 04:27 AM. |
#7
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![]() Quote:
for what it is worth I have never heard of anyone not being able to keep there tank warm, but rather not being able to keep it cold.. to do this you need fans (for small temp rises) or a chiller to do a real good job. befor I had my chiller the tank in the winter would move 2 or 3 degrees, in the summer about 5 or 6, and during the heat waves it would go up by about 12 or 13 degrees, with the chiller set at 79.0 and the heaters set at 78 I range between 79 and 81. Steve
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |
#8
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![]() Any way to activate fans with a controller based on temperature?
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