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  #11  
Old 06-21-2005, 10:46 PM
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mr_alberta mr_alberta is offline
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I'm not sure what you mean about the gap for the silicone? You put the bottom piece down first, run a bead of silicone on an edge and push one of the edge pieces of glass onto the bead.

I would recommend Euro bracing even if not for strength but for splash guard.
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  #12  
Old 06-22-2005, 02:54 AM
Gringos Gringos is offline
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Ok I got it now I think. I lay the bottom down, than put a beed on the sides and push the side glasses on. Than I run a beed along the front bottom and the front edges of the side pieces and push the front glass on. Then do the same for the back and apply even pressure all around with clicker straps. Wait 24 hours, than put a beed inside all around and let cure for 72 hours. After that I do the eurobracing, let that cure, and do water test and hope for the best. How does that sound.

I have seen people put masking tape on the glass, is this a good idea. How wide should the inside beed be. I was thinking at least 1/4 wide, so about 1/8 on each glass being joined. Should the silicone be aplyed wider on the inside?
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  #13  
Old 06-22-2005, 03:35 AM
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You usually won't need to put a bead on the inside after the 4 sides are up. The silicone will usually squish between the two panes of glass and when this happens, you can smooth it out with your finger (don't wait too long though, or you'll make a mess of the silicone). Don't worry about the silicone the squirts out on the outside. After it dries, you can just go and cut that stuff off.

Masking tape is definately a good idea. You don't want silicone spots all over your tank! IIRC when I build my tank I did 1/4" or so. It'd be also great if you can get a friend or two to help you out while building it.

Also, make sure you clean the edges with vinegar in case there are any residues on it. Most importantly, make sure the glass is dry!

Good luck and have fun!
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  #14  
Old 06-22-2005, 02:12 PM
Gringos Gringos is offline
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I think I will make myself some square braces to make shure the panes are perfectly square. Is this a good idea or does the whole thing come together square once all 4 sides are up? Should I start with the sides or front?
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  #15  
Old 06-22-2005, 05:19 PM
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If your glass is cut square, then your tank will automatically square itself up when you line the pieces together.

Des
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  #16  
Old 06-22-2005, 07:55 PM
Gringos Gringos is offline
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Quotes are comming in and I am dissapointed in some of these shops. Most of them want like 50$ for each piece. Plus they say they gota charge me like 30$ to polish each pieces so it will come out nice. Thats like 400$ plus the pieces for eurobracing. Are these guys gone mad or what. I found one place that wants 6$ a square foot and says they dont charge to cut or buff. That sounds much better. Do I need to have those sides polished to perfetion or just have the edges brocken off. I would think it does not matter because silicone will fill in all the gaps right.
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  #17  
Old 06-24-2005, 04:55 AM
BCOrchidGuy BCOrchidGuy is offline
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Where do you live, if you are in the lower mainland there is at least one used glass dealer who could set you up, he's out on the Mary Hill By Pass, just before it empties out onto the Pitt River Bridge. I can try to find out the name and # if you need it.

Doug
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  #18  
Old 07-09-2005, 03:13 AM
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Default Re: DIY cube

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gringos
I am going to make myself a 24x24x24 cube, about 60g. I was thinking 1/4 inch glass with euro-bracing. I might get starfire glass for the front pane, still waiting on the quote for that one. I will be making an exterior overflow box (1 inch bulkhead) and maybe 2 drilled holes (3/4 bulkhead) for return, all on the back glass. I am still in the planning process so any recomended changes/improvement are welcomed.
I've got a 2'x2'x2' cube for sale if you want to simply buy one instead
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