4 inch acrylic tubing

[eddie holland]

can someone pint me in the right direction.i am looking for 4 inch acrylic tubing. i am makeing a kalk reactor i need a peace 24 inches long
thanks ed

p.s. in edmonton please

[mr_alberta]

You could try Johnston Industrial Plastics on 50th Street and 97-ish ave or GE Polymers somewhere on the west end. Acrylic tube cutoffs are rare though, so you might have to buy a 6' length.

[muck]

I maybe interested in a chunk as well Ed...
Let me know what you find out.

[KrazyKuch]

I would also be interested in a 24" piece if you have any left over!!!!

[Richer]

Looks like you have enough interest to justify buying an entire 6' tube

-Rich

[Tangman]

Before you buy, acrylic tubing is sold as out side dimessions and if you are using PVC fittings you must get 4.25" tubing, because PVC is sold in "ID" sizes. 4" tubing will be too small

[sleeman]

Hey Guys,
Before you run off and spend a bunch of money, I am going to give you my take on a DIY Kalk reactor. If you only plan on building one or even two projects it is not going to be worthwile. You are better off to call Ocean Aquatics and buy one of their Kalk reactors. ON top of that, they are 6 inch acrylic instead of 4. I think they caost 150 bucks.
Here is the cost breakdown.
extruded 4" is about 16 bucks a foot.
You will probably want to buy two types of weldon.
Weldon 5 is for extruded and is about 30 bucks.
Weldon 40 (thicker for any problem areas) is another 30 bucks.
Pump is 25 to 35 bucks.
Circle Cutter. 9.99 at Princess Auto but junk or a good one for 25 bucks at canadian tire.
two taps, one for your bolts and one for the water lines 20 bucks.
Plumbing bits about 15 bucks and 20 if you use a union for a fill hole. I recommend this.
Gasket material 5 bucks
So all said and done, you are looking at about 150- 170 bucks for all the parts to build the reactor. If you have some of the tools or parts it will be cheaper.
On top of that you still need to buy or have some flat acrylic to make the base and flange. And I can guarantee that you will have to redo one part of the project if you have not worked with acrylic before.
Hope this helps guys.
If you decide to go ahead, let me know if you have any questions.

Cheers,

Al

[mr_alberta]

Wow, Al, you use Weld-On 40? That does, however, give you a crazy strong joint, but I don't think you really need more than 16. I agree though that it is quite expensive if you don't have all the tools or access to the tools.

P.S. Ed, I have Kalk Reactor for sale in the Classified Section

[StirCrazy]

Or you could make good cuts and just use weldon 4 for 5.99 a tin (this will do about 75 reactors) I have used it on stuff that is 3 years old and still in use (made from extruded tube) and not a leak yet. I have never seen weldon 5 personaly.

here is the weldon descriptions

3/Non-Flammable/Clear

Water-thin, very fast set, solvent cement for acrylics. Also bonds other plastics such as styrene, butyrate and polycarbonate to themselves.

4/Non-Flammable/Clear

Water-thin, fast set, solvent cement for acrylics. Also bonds other plastics such as styrene, butyrate and polycarbonate to themselves

5/Clear

Water-thin, medium set, solvent cement. Formulated for, but not limited to, bonding Cyro FF, ICI Perspex and Plex MC.

16/Clear

Fast drying, high-strength, medium-bodied cement. Bonds acrylic to itself. Also for styrene, butyrate, polycarbonate, other plastics and porous surfaces.

40/Clear

Two-component, reative, high-strength adhesive, clear joints. Good weatherability.


so as you can see weldon 5 isn't even for acrylic.


Steve

[Willow]

if i can also add, you need a few john guest fittings, john guest tubing. plus if you want to make it easy to take apart you need to do keyholes and need fasteners. i can see doing your own cr but im not sure its worth doing a kalk reactor.