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#1
12-08-2016, 07:05 PM
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How many gallon is that long tank under the dosing pump
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#2
12-08-2016, 08:53 PM
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Specs are Tank Height = 12" Tank Width = 12" Tank Length = 48 " Glass Thickness = 1/4" Approximate Gallons = 30 Further on my pump/water flow issue *** Good example of this I just got home from work, looked at my tank checked out all my corals the water level was bang on same as I left 7 hours ago. I went down stairs checked out my sump room, pet my cat for 2 minutes and in that 2 minutes when I walked back upstairs, AFTER TOUCHING NOTHING AT ALL only observing, walk up the stairs and I could already hear the gargling. Tank is 1/8th inch low than normal and this causes the overflow box to gargle. I run downstairs and my sump is 1/4" above the normal running water line which makes sense its that water that SHOULD be upstairs! My pump im telling you has a mind of its own or something I am not seeing is going on with this design... Nothing was touched, nothing changed, but just now, like every 2-3 days this will happen.... I am still hearing the gargling as I type this message and I don't even bother to go turn my gate valve closed a bit on the overflow line because I know in an hour or so the pump will decide to go back to how strong it was all day and I will have my water level going to high upstairs due to my slight closing of that gate valve. So I leave it alone and after an hour sometimes more sometimes less the thing will equalize again.... Very annoying I wish I could figure this out without spending another $600 on a second pump. Last edited by element291; 12-08-2016 at 08:59 PM.
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#4
12-09-2016, 01:26 AM
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Don't buy a second hammerhead, bail on the reeflo set up. I've had the exact same issue as yourself. Bought a brand new gold a while back. It runs roughly 14 feet vertical through a combination of flexible and rigid 1 1/2" pvc. Literally 3 days after installing it, it started leaking, took it off line and limped along with a Laguna 2900. Not nearly enough flow, but it did the job until I could get replacement seals and bearings. Also bought a used hammerhead ( not a gold) realizing I needed to have a back up. Had a millwright replace the bearings on both pumps as well as new seals. Within weeks, of the reinstall, the gold has developed a pinhole leak somewhere around the seal. Salt creep seems to have plugged it. It too seems inconsistent with flow rates. Took it off line and the second hammerhead leaked not even a week into running. I've got on order, seals made of a different material. If that doesn't fix these pumps. I will let them rot outside on my future pond build. Could not be more disappointed with them. Look into an Abyzz A400. I've never used one, but if money isn't an issue, they sound like an awesome pump. There is a place in Canada who sells them cheaper than the states. Sorry for the long rant, just want to warn you of my frustrations with reeflo hammerhead pumps.
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#6
12-09-2016, 03:45 AM
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I have my drain hose going into my filter bucket which is actually above the sumps waterline a few inches, would this be causing my problem because I read you want your pipe an inch under the water line but not further as the air will have a hard time getting out. Also once the water is high enough for the right side drain box to fill up the left side already is as well so I am wondering how much luck I will have getting one side to be a full syphon and one be an emergency as they both run the same water line in each side drain box. I could definitely try doing a few trial runs tomorrow because this is tiring to have to keep seeing my tank shut off via water sensor when the tank gets too high (which is was right now when I wokeup on the couch after its gargling episode it randomly started after work today and slightly closed the right gate valve - knew this would happen always does!) *EDIT* Actually you can see the waterlines in each drain box in the pics I posted and they are basically the same. BUT! After looking at this I could definitely cut a straight pipe on the left side, have its length basically long enough so its almost right to the top of the tank (my emergency drain side wide open valve) then I could on the right side, since even though my tank is bang on dead level with my level the right drain box fills up first so I could pull my durso pipe out since its just pressure fitted not PVC glued. Cut a pipe 2 inches or so, throw a grate over it just to be safe and keep fish/snails that somehow pass my initial light diffuser panel screens and tune that as my full siphon. The only problem is I will have to mod the sump setup to get the drain pipe out of my filter bucket and 1" under the sumps water line. I used to use socks which would make this easy but hated washing them all the time and it got expensive VS just simply changing out some filter floss. I am excited to try this tomorrow now! This will truely show me if my Reeflo Hammerhead is actually changing its speed throughout the day at random which I believe really is what is happening currently cause how does it run fine for 3 days even sometimes then other times like today its like the pump chokes back ever so slightly, my display water level drops, sump level rises, and I get the annoying gargling in display tank. Thanks for this advice got me inspired to try some stuff! Quote:
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Last edited by element291; 12-09-2016 at 03:53 AM.
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#7
12-09-2016, 04:04 AM
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What if you try closing one drain completely and open the the other wide open, then throttle it with the valve in the basement? For sure need 2 sets of eyes for this. The idea is not to have any air at all in the full syphon drain.
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