New sump design...........hit me with some input

[gregzz4]

Likin' either design

What about incorporating your heater(s) into one of the bubble traps to save space

Mine are in a wasted bubble trap, are always wet no matter what the return pump is doing, and are not fully submerged so hopefully they'll last longer (not fill up with water over time)

Same idea as what you are planning;
Drain to whatever chamber that overflows through the socks, then have the heaters in the next (upflow) chamber and voila, heaters are always wet, easy to remove and keeps the tops dry

Hopefully your sump is deep enough for your heaters to stand up straight

I ended up re-designing my sump (last pic), but thought these first pics would be good for a visual





This is where I changed the design and added the socks before the heaters
The last baffle is hidden by the center brace

[gregzz4]

I see there is some concern about your sock tray height ...

I have 3 x 4" socks (only equals 1 x 7") in my sump and run an Eheim 1262
My sock tray is about 1/2" below the lip of my trim, and when the mesh socks plugged up, water flowed over the baffle (1/4" below the trim) without ever going near the trim

I also don't have the water dropping into the socks, but rather just flowing through them
My socks are fully submerged and have never shifted

I don't see an issue with your sock trays being anywhere you want them

[reefme]

Water levels for two return pumps will not be the same.

[paddyob]

I say drop a baffle from each bubble trap. Over kill. More sump space.

[subman]

Looks great Greg. Is that ATO chamber going to be fed from an ro/di system or are you having to manually add water? If you are manually adding.. It's to small.

I know you have a lot of returns heading back to the display but I think I'd still rather a larger single return section with both pumps in it.

[paddyob]

Oh I was referring to the sump in the
Photo. Not the
Mock up.

[The Grizz]

Originally Posted by reefme

Water levels for two return pumps will not be the same.

DOnt really care if they are different or not they will still pump the same amount of water.

Originally Posted by paddyob

I say drop a baffle from each bubble trap. Over kill. More sump space.

In order to get the right baffle pattern ( over/under/over ) I had to add a 4th.

Originally Posted by kien

Thanks for clearing that up! I was confused/mesmerized by all those chambers.

Speaking of chambers, I am against integrated dosing chambers :-). I frequently clean the crud out of my jugs by rinsing them in the sink. Can't imagine what a pain it would be to try and clean out integrated ones in your sump. I suppose you could just live with any residue and not bother to clean them.

Good point Kien, I will remove them and just go with individual containers.

[The Grizz]

Originally Posted by gregzz4

Likin' either design

What about incorporating your heater(s) into one of the bubble traps to save space

Mine are in a wasted bubble trap, are always wet no matter what the return pump is doing, and are not fully submerged so hopefully they'll last longer (not fill up with water over time)

Same idea as what you are planning;
Drain to whatever chamber that overflows through the socks, then have the heaters in the next (upflow) chamber and voila, heaters are always wet, easy to remove and keeps the tops dry

Hopefully your sump is deep enough for your heaters to stand up straight

My current tank has never had the heater turned on at all, my chiller has to run even in the winter. As I have said before or living room has in floor heat and the glass window separating it from the pool help keep it really warm in there BUT I do plan on having 1 maybe 2 heaters in there just in case. They will not fit in the baffles as I am going to be using a digital type heater.

Originally Posted by zum14

Well it looks really fancy. On the first drawing the baffle heights look good. I've found you need to have the socks about 2" above the water or they tend to shift out of there holder. On your second drawing Your sharpie lines show the water being about the same height as the sock holder. From my experience (what little there is) I think that you will find your water height will be too high in the middle chamber even with clean socks as you need to have a slight difference in pressure for the water to push through the sock. The other thing is you want to have the safety channel. If your socks plug up you want to have a way for the water to go over the baffle. Right now it would hit the floor. Not that 8 socks are going to plug quickly. Only other question I had was is there a specific reason for running 2 systems back to back like that? I have 2500gph running through 2 4" socks and the water still splashes into them making me think they can handle even more flow. Couple of 7" socks and you could run the whole amount through them. Then you got room for a refugium or frag tank. It's an awesome size, excited to see this one get set up. If its anything like your other tanks it'll be stellar. I like the built in chambers and ato. Good use of space.

Not going to have a refuge ever again, it was more of a pain then anything & I already have a frag tank going. Thanks for the input on the socks I will go look at my buddies sump and see what he did with his socks so I get a better idea. I have a couple piece of glass with a notch cut out of the corner that fit the tank and could use them for the sock holder wall with the notch at the top.

Originally Posted by Myka

How big is the display? I like OM on closed loop rather than return line. I would have one return chamber and both pumps in there. Have the sump flow one direction. Returns go straight to tank with maybe a couple splitters so you have 4 nozzles going into tank (depending on size of display). Then make closed loop to run the 8 OM outputs.

Eight 4" filter socks? I would rather use four 7" filter socks. I hate 4" filter socks.

It a 300 gal 8'er Myka. I dont want another closed loop, also a pain in the arse. I want to be able to control the amount of flow on each pump as one pump will return on one half of the tank and the other pump the other half.

[The Grizz]

Originally Posted by subman

Looks great Greg. Is that ATO chamber going to be fed from an ro/di system or are you having to manually add water? If you are manually adding.. It's to small.

I know you have a lot of returns heading back to the display but I think I'd still rather a larger single return section with both pumps in it.

Originally Posted by CM125

I still dont understand the purpose of the two return chambers, with a sump that size you could have a bad-ass refuge and a larger return area with both pumps in it, or even a larger ATO area. Also does that ATO top off both return sections? seems like another pump would be needed...

No refuge, ever again!

I am planning a auto WC system as well as a feed pump directly from my 200 gal whole house RO system. I want to have the 2 pump apart because it will be very hard to plumb 2 4ways that close together. also want to have as my OF lines as short as possible ( dual bean animals ) and join together near center of the tank to a 3" manifold.

[Myka]

How is an ATO going to work with two return chambers? Don't tell me you're manually topping off a 300-gallon tank...??

Originally Posted by The Grizz

It a 300 gal 8'er Myka. I dont want another closed loop, also a pain in the arse. I want to be able to control the amount of flow on each pump as one pump will return on one half of the tank and the other pump the other half.

Why is a closed loop a PITA?

If it was me I would use one of those DC10000 pumps for a return with 2 or 4 nozzles, and then get a bigger pump for a closed loop. Those DC10000 pumps aren't near big enough imo. I would be looking at a Reeflo Hammerhead for each OM which would still only give you about 35x turnover.