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Old 04-19-2012, 01:19 AM
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my durso overflow would do the same thing , i had 2 1 inch drains and a 500gph return and if i didnt tune the drains with air intake and choke valves they would pull full siphon and drain the overflow box then lose siphon and the return would pump the retun section way down . So you might just have to fiddle with it a bit.
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Old 04-19-2012, 01:47 AM
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Do you have a Gate Valve? The Herbie takes some fine adjusting to exactly match the full siphon flow rate to your return rate. Once dialed in it should be steady.
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Old 04-19-2012, 02:08 AM
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even with a gate valve it's just slight adjustments to get flow balanced. Once that's sorted out shouldn't have to worry about your ATO
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Old 04-19-2012, 04:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark View Post
even with a gate valve it's just slight adjustments to get flow balanced. Once that's sorted out shouldn't have to worry about your ATO
I meant if he does not have a gate valve and only a ball valve it will be very hard to make those slight adjustments. The Gate Valve makes life infinitely easier to find the sweet spot compared to the 1/4 turn ball valves.
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Old 04-19-2012, 04:32 AM
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Wayne, I haven't setup my new Tunze ATO yet, but I remember reading in the manual that there is more than one way to set the on/off pump level by spacing the sensors further apart.
Have you checked your's to see if you can have the leeway you need?
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Old 04-19-2012, 07:21 AM
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I have a gate valve on the drain pipe, not a ball valve. The herbie causes the level in the sump to fluctuate very very slowly but still enough to cause the ATO to turn on. Im assuming i just need to spend more time dialing it in and getting the flows to match up, thanks philg3.

I have a refractometer and it reads 1.025 after a waterchange and then a day later the salinity will be 1.024 or 1.023 so that rules out my refractometer needing calibration..

I don't think I can adjust much with this system. Its just a single float switch that turns a pump on when the float drops and turns it off when the float rises up. Maybe I will have to spend some more money and get a more elaborate system. The JBJ ATO is fairly cheap ($70).
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Old 04-19-2012, 06:38 PM
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Is your overflow plumbing able to handle full flow from your return pump ?
I ask as I noticed during testing mine that there is a correlation between my sump level and my overflow level. Not just the actual levels, but the water level in the overflow affects drainage speed and so on.
I am wondering;
If your overflow can handle full flow maybe it will help you stabilize the whole setup ?
Good luck
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Old 04-19-2012, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmcinnes View Post

I have a refractometer and it reads 1.025 after a waterchange and then a day later the salinity will be 1.024 or 1.023 so that rules out my refractometer needing calibration..
Have you ever calibrated? If not then its still possible its wrong.

However, depending on your salt, some needs to sit 24hrs to fully dissolve, like H2Ocean. If I use mine right away I can guarantee salinity swings.

Also, do you turn your ATO off before water change? Maybe its pumping extra top off in while you remove dirty water. Just a thought. Maybe you are not adding EXACT amounts of new water to removed water and then ATO is diluting to bring top up to correct water level?

Just think the solution is a simple fix.

Good luck.



Just makes no sense at all that the ATO is doing it.
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