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#1
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RODI...changing the carbon, etc
"If it ain't broke, don't fix it" I have always been taught.
I have had my Captive Puriity RODI running since March of 2009 - so like a year and a half. Range it shows is still well within the green 'safe' range and is 0 TDS consistently (occasionally gives me a 1 or 2 ppm) I was told to replace the sediment and Carbon abiut a year ago now, the DI should have been replaced by now. I know it is WAY overdue, but all the values tell me it is still working fine. Should I replace these 3 elements NOW anyway, or wait until I start getting TDS? Thanks. |
#2
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You probably should to avoid pre-mature dead of more expensive membrane.
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#4
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I would change the carbon at the very least, it takes the chlorine/chloramine out of the water which can damage the RO membrane. I usually change out my filters every 6-8 months or so and they can be pretty cruddy.
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free. |
#5
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i changed mine
right when i changed all the carbon and the sediment filter the flow increased by 400%. I fill 23gallons in 1 hour where before it was taking several. plus they are cheap, i bought a big box for like 80 bucks. |
#6
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What RO/DI unit are you using? 550 GPD is a lot of water production, it takes me about 10 hours to get 23g with my unit. Does yours have a pump on it?
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#7
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Exactly what christyf5 was saying if chlorine makes it's was through your expensive membrane will be shot. sediment and carbon 4 to six months depending on the production of water for me DI 6 months
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#8
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Quote:
And in respect of the OP, many modern cars can actually run for years without a single oil change. But take apart the engine of such a car and you'll see some significant damage. The same goes for your pre-filters. It's called "maintenance" for a reason - you need to do it to maintain your RO/DI unit. Don't be lazy or cheap. |