290G Peninsula Tank - Page 37

daplatapus · #**361** 01-04-2013, 12:57 AM

With my very limited experience so far my first choice for QT/hospital tanks would multiple smaller tanks rather than 1 large tank. I have 2 - 20 longs and a 50. I've yet to use the 50 gal. If something went south and you had to move and house fish somewhere, it would seem better (again in my limited experience) to put aggressive-ish that don't do well with others in a smaller but longish tank (e.g.. tangs) by themselves and happy schooling, peaceful fish, in another tank or 2. Smaller tanks are easier to perform water changes in, so if the tank transfer method is for you, then that's a bonus. Smaller water volume makes it easier to treat with meds, you don't need as much. If 1 fish needs a rest/hospitalization, you're not running a 70 gal when a 20 would do.
Downside is, it's a smaller tank. Ammonia needs to be watched closer than in a big tank. And it would be hard to house fish that get a bit stressed with other fish in a confined space, therefore I'd opt to put them by themselves. Now if you had 30 Tangs in your main display, that could be a problem

Anyway, that's my $0.02
Hadn't seen it expressed yet, maybe there's a reason....

lockrookie · #**362** 01-04-2013, 01:22 AM

Here's an idea for you have custom built or find a 5' long 15 to 18 wide tank only run a couple aqua clear hang on back with heater. Have it sit low enough that you can build a table/lid over the tank for your workspace. Have the lid able to be hinged upwards and tethered out of place when adding treating removing fish. Put on two or three t5 strips on the underside to light the tank. This way you are utilizing all the space as you need you lose a bit of storage space but in the grand scheme your fish will thank you for it. I can try to roughly draw it up for you if you like. Oh and add Formica to the top of table area for easy cleanup. The qt tank doesn't need to be at eye level it just has to function for its purpose. Doesn't mean you can't multi purpose the area too

zum14 · #**363** 01-04-2013, 01:26 AM

Read the whole build. Im sure you have heard this lots but this is my dream build, just as your setup. As far as quarantine thats a toughy. You are optimizing your space pretty well already. The only thing i can think of and im not sure i even like it because of what needs to be done but, could you find a decent sized tank that fits inbetween the posts of your bench. Notch the lower shelf and set up a tank on a nice sturdy wood base with some locking casters? Have a place to anchor lights under the bench and if you really need to get in there or clean it you can unlock the wheels and wheel it out. Pending the tank is not too large. I dunno just throwing it into the pile. I just dont like losing shef space. Plus tank on wheels is kinda ehhhh.

mseepman · #**364** 01-04-2013, 04:41 AM

Thank you to everyone for the suggestions! I knew I was in the right place to get some ideas. I'm leaning towards building a simple table on the right along with a short platform under it to allow for the 70 to go underneath. I agree that the larger tank has both merits and disadvantages. I don't have the room to make the table fold up but I'll try to find a way to be creative with the build. One of the challenges is that the floor slightly slopes to the drain and I will have account for that in the design. I plan to keep the the 20g as the main QT for now though.

mseepman · #**365** 01-21-2013, 05:51 AM

Been working on the tank when time allows...amazing how many jobs come up when you move. New Vertex RODI is up. Great little unit but noisy and I can't figure out why. QT tank is up. Salty but nothing in it except for water and pumps to circulate.
Today I started making my first 100g of water. No leaks so far...but we'll see in the morning when I go to move water from the fresh bin to the salty one.
My plan is to fill the sump and then both bins with fresh water, then start moving it through the setup to get it upstairs to the display. I haven't finished plumbing upstairs yet, but I'm not too far off.

mseepman · #**366** 01-21-2013, 08:24 PM

What silicone is best for the odd plumbing fix..ie...at apvc joint you can't get to

nrosdal · #**367** 01-21-2013, 10:34 PM

if it is a pvc joint i would be more inclined to hit it with some more pvc glue the with some silicone. Unless you have already tried more solvent or if the gap is really big.

option 2 is: get you kids with their tiny little hands to get in and cut it apaart and re glue it for you

mseepman · #**368** 01-21-2013, 11:02 PM

haha...it's joint where the PVC screws into my fresh water barrel. It drips every now and then when the pump is pulling water from the barrel. It doesn't when it's just sitting under the water pressure of the tank itself.

I also now hate unions. Is there a perfect way to know they are good. Two of mine leaked and they couldn't be in worse locations to reach. I've redone them and they are fine now but I put a union into everything...go knows how many leaks I will have!!!! It scares the bejesus out of me and all I've got going is my water change station.

nrosdal · #**369** 01-21-2013, 11:17 PM

With unions on plastic storage tanks or anything non breakable i just tighten them real tight(like until rubber bulges on gasket and plastic looks all distorted). On glass i just go hand tight then a couple wrench turns. Generally if you have a deceint quality union it should be pretty well sealed at slightly past what you can do with your big strong hands.

or you could just order a can of flex seal from the infomercial and coat everything. Did you know that they put a screen door on the bottom of a boat and flex seal made it float

mseepman · #**370** 01-22-2013, 03:51 AM

I need advice on a plumbing issue. I just don't seem to be having much luck with plumbing lately so I think its better to ask what people think.

On my return, I divide the 2" line into a closed circuit 1" run that goes over my eurobrace. T's then push the water down through holes in the bracing at the far end from the overflow. I have put unions on both sides of these runs in case I need to remove them. Herein lies the dilemma....where the holes go down, I would like to glue in 90's with threaded ends so that my educators can screw in and help push the water back towards the overflow. If I glue these in, I will not be able to get the "loop" off via my unions anymore...in fact they will be permanent.
Is this the right thing to do? Any alternatives that make more sense?

Already tonight I over tightened the the threaded PVC into my blo-hole pump and cracked the union at the pump. Aaargh!