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#1
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How can you plan to be putting your sump in the garage?
This isn't California. Or will it be room temperature, and not be used otherwise? |
#2
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Lol out of all my questions that's the question you ask 😝 I have a heated garage so it's stays nice and warm 😊 may also just build a small 6x10 room for the sump so I can use a open trough instead of a sealed unit
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#3
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In order for your tank to drain you need a minimum of 1 to 2% slope over the entire run, there can be no dips or it will clog. A 1" and 3/4" bulkhead will not move much water at a 1% grade.
Increase the grade or increase the size of the bulkhead and increase the amount of water that will move through the line. You can always adjust the size of your return pump to meet the amount of water your drain will move. You do not have to have a large turnover in your sump to make the sump effective. I am not an engineer but bracing a tank is not a bad idea. You would likely need a footing in to hard pan to work over the long run. A large 2'x2' concrete pad on the soil surface might work for a short period, but could be affected by the changes in soil moisture. You do not want your floor going up and down. |
#4
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Best you could hope for is to add a gate valve to the drain and get it pulling a siphon.
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#5
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Could you post a picture of the 2 joists and 2 beams in question? I have a feeling you might be good with just sistering the 2 joists and adding some blocking.
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#6
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Quote:
My current plan is to just get 2 telepost on sidewalk blocks under the joist that the front of the fish tank is on. Joist are 2x10 and roughly 14 ft long |
#7
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Quote:
If by 'sidewalk blocks', you mean some type of concrete paver, I wouldn't use that. It will shatter. Instead, place your jacks on top of some wood. It will absorb and distribute weight more evenly. A couple of 2 x 10's @ 12 - 24 inches under each jack will absorb and distribute weight more evenly. A few nails to secure the jacks will also help with any future shear stresses. Last edited by WarDog; 01-09-2019 at 05:30 AM. |