Canreef Aquatics Bulletin Board  

Go Back   Canreef Aquatics Bulletin Board > General > Nano Tank Talk

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 11-04-2018, 11:57 PM
Chrisrex's Avatar
Chrisrex Chrisrex is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Surrey, BC
Posts: 8
Chrisrex is on a distinguished road
Default Cycling question

I know that this has probably been asked but just want to ask peoples current view on water changes during cycling of a new tank.

Personally Iím cycling
29gal biocube oceanic
20 pounds of dry rock
25 pounds of live sand
Mp10w pump
Mj1200 return pump
Intank media basket with filter floss/Purgen/chemi-pure elite
Tunze 9002 skimmer with upgraded mj600 pump
Also running a AI Sol blue led fixture
H2ocean salt mix
BRS 5 stage RO/Di tds is reading 0tds

Again wondering what peoples thoughts are on water changes and recommendations
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-05-2018, 02:38 AM
WarDog's Avatar
WarDog WarDog is offline
Darth Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maple Ridge, BC
Posts: 3,097
WarDog will become famous soon enough
Default

Wait until nitrite spikes, then drops to 0, and then do your first w/c of 50%.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-05-2018, 02:02 PM
Myka's Avatar
Myka Myka is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Saskatoon, SK.
Posts: 11,268
Myka will become famous soon enough
Default

I don't do water changes in new tanks until there is a reason. Usually on new tanks (especially those with Marco rock or other sterile-type dry rock) there is barely a whiff of nitrate after the cycle is over, so the first water change will be 4-6 weeks after the initial cycle is over. Then monthly-ish water changes. As the population of corals increases then the water changes become more often. If there is no nitrate or a tiny amount present there is no reason to do a water change. There won't be a significant number of corals in the tank using up trace elements so doing a water change is a waste of time. I just mix around the sand once or twice a week with a set of long tweezers/tongs to keep it aerated. New tanks started with clean, dry rock need to be "dirtied up" a bit - they are sterile, wasteland until some life gets introduced. I always add a big, gross, dirty filter pad from a HEALTHY established reef to a new tank to introduce some bacteria strains and microfauna like various species of copepods and amphipods once the cycle is complete.


On the other hand, some tanks have horrendous amounts of nitrate after the initial cycle because the rock is super dirty or the person added a whack of food/shrimp to initiate the cycle and totally overdid it. In that case, I'd do a 50-100% water change to flush some of that crap out. If I see a ton of ammonia and/or nitrite forming (say more than 3 ppm) then I'll do a large water change mid-cycle. I won't add the dirty filter pad until the cycle is complete and nitrate is under 10 ppm.


It's all about the nutrients...too much organics and big water changes, no organics, no water changes.
__________________
~ Mindy

SPS fanatic.


Last edited by Myka; 11-05-2018 at 02:09 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-05-2018, 03:57 PM
DKoKoMan's Avatar
DKoKoMan DKoKoMan is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 1,249
DKoKoMan is on a distinguished road
Default

Very well explained
__________________
300g Basement Reef - April 2018
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 09:00 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2023, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.