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#1
12-03-2010, 05:59 AM
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I agree that a lot has to do with improer soldering techniques. I have yet to see solder meant for electronics without a flux core, even the lead free ones I have used always contain them, from the sound of what he said though that he had to scratch the component to get some soldering to happen he definitely needs it.
And also boring a hole through the track of an smd mounted component is not a good idea as they are normally too small that drilling a hole through them would likely cause it to peel off. 
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#2
12-03-2010, 11:28 PM
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So I just checked out my solder and its Rosin core! ah ha! Maybe I need to try this again with flux core?
I wonder if I fried the driver in the process  $
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#3
12-03-2010, 11:31 PM
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Oh no wait, Rosin is flux haha so back to squire one.
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#4
12-04-2010, 12:09 AM
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pure solder doesn't work well, the resin core is a cleaning agent that helps remove impurities and allow the solder to stick. If you are having to scratch at the metal to get it to stick then it isn't clean. You could try cleaning it with alcohol or scuffing it up with a scotch brite. You need to get the metal hot enough for the solder to bond without overheating it. When the temperature is right if you dab the solder on it will travel along the metal. If you are soldering to surface mount copper pads on a circuit board be carefull. If it is clean it shouldn't take much to heat it up. Too much and it will lift the trace from the board.
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72g bowfront, t5. 29g JBJ nano cube, ATI 26HD. Livestock: clown fish, chromis, coral beauty. Corals: Toadstool, maze brain, candy cane, mushrooms (purple & green hairy), button polyps, green zoas, GSP.
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#5
12-04-2010, 06:25 PM
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Looking forward to seeing this...I am planning an LED build myself for my 290G peninsula once I finally get the damn house built.
I was planning on doing a blend of CW and RB crees but after researching for countless hours, it appears to me that there is a real need for some Neutral Whites and even a few standard blues in the mix to give you the coloration that we are used to with MH and or T5. Where are you getting your heatsinks? Where are the big meanwells coming from? Are you planning to balance the forward voltage on your parallel setups or are you just going to keep the voltage low enough to handle an issue if it arrises? I plan to do about 200 LED's and that would mean a lot of the small ELN meanwells which is a problem. My issue is that all the threads over on RC seem to put the fear of GOD into people who plan to go parallel on their LED setups rather than serial. Looking forward to hearing how you plan to do all this.
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Mark...  290g Peninsula Display, 425g total volume. Setup Jan 2013. Last edited by mseepman; 12-04-2010 at 06:31 PM.
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#6
12-04-2010, 07:09 PM
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from my first post you will see im going 2 drivers only for all 144 leds.
one for CW and one for RB so i can dim them seperatley im actually doing a diagram right now to handle any issues with the parallel design, it should be fail safe. I should have it up within next couple hours. Drivers are coming from cdiweb.com Heatsinks are coming from heatsinkusa.com Extra odds and ends are coming for digikey.ca ill be posting links to each of the parts too for others reading.
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#7
12-04-2010, 09:04 PM
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So here is the wiring diagram and parts list
The resistors are there to easily measure the amps since this is a parallel design. Fuses are in for "o ****" protection Terminal blocks for ease of wiring Doing this setup doesnt really give me plug in play modules but rather a full 72in fixture. Resistors x 12: $1.05 ea http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=UB5C-1.0-ND 1A Fuses x 12 (for Royal Blues): These are 1A. And could be used in most cases in 700ma up to maybe 900mA setups. $0.83 ea http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...ame=F3169CT-ND 1.5A Fuses x 12 (for Cool Whites): could be used in most cases in 1.2A up to maybe 1.4A setups. $0.83 ea http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...&name=F2319-ND Terminal Block x 4: These are 12 position $3.80ea http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=A98510-ND Terminal Block Jumper x 20: $.025 ea http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...&name=A0139-ND 10x10 Heatsink x 3 $31.17 ea http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/products/...x-10-inch.html *note might be changing this due to weight issues ****NOTE THIS DRIVER HAS CHANGED BECAUSE IT WILL NOT DIM UNDER 50%********** Cool white dimmable driver (HLG-240-42B 42v 5.72 amps) $118.31 http://wattsupply.com/s.nl/it.A/id.3056/.f ****NOTE THIS DRIVER HAS CHANGED BECAUSE IT WILL NOT DIM UNDER 50%********** Royal Blue dimmable driver (HLG-240-54B 54v 4.45 amps) $118.31 http://wattsupply.com/s.nl/it.A/id.3056/.f #6-32 3/8 Length Nylon Screws (100pc) x 4: 4.64ea http://www.smallparts.com/nylon-mach...qid=1291591373 or More expensive but in Canada: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...l&name=H556-ND #6-32 Tap x 1: 11.25ea http://www.smallparts.com/butterfiel...e_name=%236-32 *I might buy this locally and order the nylon screws through digikey Thermal Grease 2.5g x 5: 4.83ea http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/products/...trix-2.5g.html 22awg 600v pretinned stranded wire: $7.50 50ft http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/products/...600-volt).html LEDs XP-G cool white in 10 LED series (http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/products/...ool-White.html) XP-E royal blue in 14 LED series (http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/products/...oyal-Blue.html) Ill probably end up buying 3 times as many fuses just in case. wiring on between LEDs is 22awg wiring from driver to blocks is 20awg  Last edited by Milad; 02-23-2011 at 10:48 PM.
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Hybrid Mode
