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  #1  
Old 10-13-2001, 09:54 PM
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Default Tips and Tricks 101

Thought it might be nice to hear some tricks or tips you guys may have learned,so that some of the old/newcomers in the reefkeeping hobby can avoid some extra costs...and maybe a headache or two. [img]images/smiles/icon_wink.gif[/img]


A couple i have learned,

Its much easier to buy a 1/4" tap,and tap into the outfeed of your main system pump(at the base)to feed your reactor.
Saves the valuable plug in,and another small reduction in electricity,and a more reliable pressure.

If your a DIY`er,you can bend up to 3/4" pvc into a full 180 degrees without kinks for siphons or gravel vacs ect,by measuring the outside diameter of pipe to be bent,and purchasing a lightwieght spring(like a slinky but much smaller) with thin but easily manipulated coils with an inside diameter within 1/8" of the pipes O.D.
Heat the pipe up with a torch evenly until it is fairly flexible and slide the spring on,and bend to desired shape [img]images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif[/img].
Make sure spring is not a tight fit when slid on the pipe,and do a practice one first. [img]images/smiles/icon_wink.gif[/img]

Buy a roll of a plastic mesh called "gutter guard",this stuff is worth the 5 bucks!
You can weave a strip of the stuff in and out of the fingers on your overflow,no more fishes & snails in the sump.

C`mon...give up your secrets...heh.

Marc.

[ 13 October 2001: Message edited by: Fudge ]
  #2  
Old 10-13-2001, 10:08 PM
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Default Tips and Tricks 101

Hmmm Kewl topic Marc.. Let me dig some things out of this rusty brain of mine.. [img]images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]

-When plumbing your tank/sump whatever. Rather than use solid PVC, spend the bit more and go for he flex tubing. More forgiving. If you make amistake you dont need to start over.

- Use ball/gate valves wherever possible. ie before and after pumps. Allows you to disconnect and replace without draining.

- Quick hand disconnects. Another useful device for plumbing. Much easier.

- Have two different GFCI circuits. Set up some circ/return pumps on opposite circuits. If one trips there will still be circulation.

- If working with WELD-ON 16 and acrylic. Push the bead of glue around the bond rather than let it run. you have more control of how much goes to the joint.

[ 13 October 2001: Message edited by: DJ88 ]
  #3  
Old 10-14-2001, 03:23 AM
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Default Tips and Tricks 101

Hello Guys,

An interesting trick I've learned is to have the excess air release valve for ca reactors hooked up to the high aeration skimmer's air intake. Make sure you have an inline valve for that though. This means any time after refilling the reactor, you can just let the the skimmer to re-prime those top mount pumps. This works well for the Canreef reactors, and I'm sure would work well for the Korallin ones as well. I'd suspect it to work for bottom mount reactors too.

Titus
  #4  
Old 10-15-2001, 12:02 PM
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Default Tips and Tricks 101

Hello Everybody,

Tip #1. Sealing your top rim of your tank. Usually a black plastic trim is placed on the edge of your tank to brace the tank and to prevent you from cutting yourself when you reach in to your tank. Take some silicone and seal the gap between the inside glass and the rim. This prevents bacteria and fungus from growing in the gap.

Tip #2. Extend life of Rios. I have Rio 800 pump and it seems to eat impelers for breakfast. The common failure point on my Rio is not the impeller blades, but the plastic shaft that keeps the impeller level. Once the shaft is worn out (takes 2 months), the impeller blades start to wobble, makes the pump very noisy, blades touch the Rio housing...bam...impeller blades are gone. So...I superglue the impeller blades to the plastic leveling shaft. This keeps the blades from smashing in to the housing.

Tip #3. Save your pumps. When running with high Ca and Alk levels, your pumps take a beating. Have two impeller assembles. One is always dipped in vinegar and the other is in use. Every month or so, exchange the impeller assembles. This will ensure that calcium deposits do not accumulate on your impeller and ensures your pump does not overheating due to impeller getting stuck.

- Victor.

[ 15 October 2001: Message edited by: reefburnaby ]
  #5  
Old 10-28-2001, 03:39 PM
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Default Tips and Tricks 101

Cool ideas,
Thought`ve one more [img]images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]

For those unhappy with their current effluent valve on their reactors...

Cut a 2" piece from a small (1/2" preferably smaller)diameter pvc,and get a small 1/4? metal bolt and a matching plastic bolt of the same thread pattern (with a slotted top).
The ones at revy for toilet stuff work well.
Drill a hole in the pvc about 1/16th" smaller than the bolt you are using.
Use the metal bolt to thread (tap) the pipe.
(you may have to file the ends of the bolt slightly).
Thread in the plastic bolt in and run your effluent line thru it.
This seems to work better and plugs less than any valve ive used for effluent,but is a little harder to get it tweaked just right [img]images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif[/img].

Marc.
  #6  
Old 02-08-2002, 11:44 PM
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Default Tips and Tricks 101

I thought that this was a good thread to get going again. [img]images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]

When you are doing some woodworking and don't have a shop full of nice tools (tablesaw,etc) I have had the shop that I bought my plywood from cut the wood to size for me. They are cheap (buck a cut usually) and the cuts are nice. If you know what sizes you want, this can save some time and makes the assembly easier.

I like to use 'o' rings on my skimmer and reactor flanges. They work great, no leaks, and are cheap.

If you need to do some water chemistry tests, I suggest using a quality test kit, like Salifert. You will be glad you did.

One last thing that I do with my system, I work from 7:30am till 4:30pm so I have my halides come on at 12:30pm and off at 11:30pm. This way I can enjoy my tank when I am at home after work.

[img]images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]
  #7  
Old 02-09-2002, 12:52 AM
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Default Tips and Tricks 101

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Silverfish:


When you are doing some woodworking and don't have a shop full of nice tools (tablesaw,etc) I have had the shop that I bought my plywood from cut the wood to size for me. They are cheap (buck a cut usually) and the cuts are nice. If you know what sizes you want, this can save some time and makes the assembly easier.

[img]images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]
<hr></blockquote>


Where did you get your wood cut?
  #8  
Old 02-09-2002, 12:54 AM
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Default Tips and Tricks 101

I get mine cut at home depot, 0.50/ cut and the first 2 are free

the guy out here conciders one pull of the saw a cut so if you can fit 12 boards in there and he does them all with one pull it is only one cut [img]images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]

Steve
  #9  
Old 02-09-2002, 03:48 AM
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I got my plywood cut at Windsor Plywood here in Vic. I think it cost me 5 or 6 dollars to cut the wood for my hood and same for my 15g stand/equipment cabinet. They use a nice blade that does beautiful cuts.
  #10  
Old 02-09-2002, 03:58 PM
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Default Tips and Tricks 101

The same cut priciple applies to acrylic as well. My supplier will cut the acrylic to the exact dimensions I need, everytime.

Saves much time and many cuts on my hands and arms.

HOWEVER, some of them will not cut for you if they know you are building an aquarium. I don't understand this but it is their policy. I am sure somebody sued them over it.
 

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