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#11
07-01-2015, 12:17 AM
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Im definitely not going to dissuade you from over building it, a strong stand is a good stand, but this is one I built a while back and it was seriously over built. Remember that most commercial stands are only plywood, and they hold up. Some well chosen, straight (as best you can find) 2x4's and you'll be fine. You have a solid start there (no pun intended).
I should note that the final build had a center brace in the back and one in the middle of the top surface. I used a 1/2" plyboard top and bottom which really made it solid, and skinned it with 1/4" ply.
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My Tank Build on Aquatic Log http://www.aquaticlog.com/aquariums/darkwingduck/4 BIG REEF Tank Re-Build Thread: http://www.gtaaquaria.com/forum/show...=46508&page=23 Last edited by Duckhams; 07-01-2015 at 12:19 AM. 
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#13
07-01-2015, 04:10 AM
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The only 2 cents i will say, is that you may want to consider fir 2x4s and not spruce. Fir is much less likely to deflect
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#15
07-01-2015, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Add a good coat of KILZ waterproofer inside and seal the inside panels (at least a couple of inches up from the bottom panel)to prevent water leakage/damage later on. This will save your floor too. No matter how hard you try something will spill, overflow, splash etc.
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My Tank Build on Aquatic Log http://www.aquaticlog.com/aquariums/darkwingduck/4 BIG REEF Tank Re-Build Thread: http://www.gtaaquaria.com/forum/show...=46508&page=23
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#16
07-01-2015, 05:32 PM
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I've seen one neat rick but haven't tried it myself. You take a small V chisel and make an incision to lift up a piece of the plywood with it where you want to place a finishing nail. Tap the nail in and then add a dap of wood glue on top of the nail and fold the piece of ply wood pack into place. Sand a bit when dry. The nails are completely hidden. Myself I prefer to use screws on the sheeting and then glue a piece of matching wood molding over top of the heads. You can get some really nice molding that really make the stand look like a piece of furniture rather than a plywood box.
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#17
07-01-2015, 10:04 PM
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Here is what I did for my recent upgrade. 2x4 studs, top and bottom plate. 2x6 joists and rim joist. 1/2 oak sheeting for the sides and 5/8 pine for the top. Before applying sheeting to the top I power planed the crowns out of joists and checked everything with a straight edge to ensure that the top would be flat. Framing was assembled with 3" deck screws and sheeting applied with 2-1/4 deck screws (its what I had on hand, they didn't need to be that long). Then I finished everything off with oak baseboard, chair rail, panel moulding, crown moulding and casing. I stained (two coats Mission Oak) and Varathaned (two coats semi gloss) all of the trim laying flat before cutting and fastening (an attempt to avoid run lines and drip marks). The finish trim was installed with brads and a bit of wood glue, I then filled the nail heads with putty. I sort of wish I had made the bottom of the stand a little 'bolder' to mimic the top but other than that I'm pleased with how it turned out.
  
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"We shall dive down through black abysses... and in that lair of the Deep Ones we shall dwell amidst wonder and glory forever." - H.P. Lovecraft Old 120gal Tank Journal New 225gal Tank Journal May 2010 TOTM The 10th Annual Prince George Reef Tank Tour
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#19
07-02-2015, 05:07 PM
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Plywood type: I was checking out plywood and I figured between maple, oak, and birch that maple would be the most expensive. However maple was $55 per sheet 3\4", birch was $73, and oak was $79. Should I just go with maple?
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#20
07-02-2015, 07:23 PM
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stand
shop around on your prices.your birch seems really expensive.i get my birch at rona or windsor for $37 a sheet,mahogany at $50,oak $80.and depends on the type of maple.(all 3/4)again maple does not take stain well
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