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  #11  
Old 07-08-2013, 10:42 PM
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Ok, I'm trying to take RAW photos. I have RAW+L setting "on" in the menu and also RAW chosen as size using the FUNC. SET button. This is supposed to work (according to Google)...might have to refer to user manual. *sigh* There is a RAW icon on the screen when I'm taking the photo, but when I look at the photo properties on he memory card (through my laptop) it shows the pics as jpeg files.
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  #12  
Old 07-08-2013, 10:44 PM
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Raw basically means there will be no adjustment applied to the photo by the camera. Don't be surprised when the image looks dull and flat.
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Myka View Post
Ok, I'm trying to take RAW photos. I have RAW+L setting "on" in the menu and also RAW chosen as size using the FUNC. SET button. This is supposed to work (according to Google)...might have to refer to user manual. *sigh* There is a RAW icon on the screen when I'm taking the photo, but when I look at the photo properties on he memory card (through my laptop) it shows the pics as jpeg files.
When you shoot RAW+L the camera will actually give you two image files on the memory card. One that's labelled .JPG ( the normal file you'd get; with adjustments), and a '.CR2' file (this is the RAW file with no adjustments). You want to email the '.CR2' file to Steve. Hope that helps.
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:57 PM
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It looks as though your biggest issue is the glass distortion caused by shooting at an angle through the tank glass.
As for RAW. the biggest difference is that a RAW file it between 12 and 16 bit. While a JPG is an 8bit file. Printers print in 8 bit. the idea of RAW is to allow the shooter to manipulate what 8bits are to be used rather than the camera software.
For the most point Canon, Nikon, Panasonic and so on invest millions on R&D to have the camera software be able to pick the correct 8bits. This is why for the average photographer RAW really isn't a big factor. Also you need to invest in some decent software such as lightroom to process a RAW file.

Some simple tricks to WB is to eliminate multiple colour temperatures. So if you run a 10K MH and some actinics, turn the actinics off for picture taking time.
and also try to white balance off of white.

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  #15  
Old 07-09-2013, 02:55 AM
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I have photoshop elements and use that primarily. Elements does everything you need for basic white balance/colour level adjustment. Its doesn't have some of the more advanced features (like focus stacking). Good value software.

The photo you posted shows distortion and loss of detail in the red portions. However, the detail and of the other portions (green and the tentacles) is there (and would be sharper with a tripod/timed release).

I don't think its glass distortion (with all due respect to Jason) because you would have distortion throughout.

I suspect that the red areas are overexposed and your camera's processing of the signal is distorting that into those "blotches" of red where there is complete loss of detail.

To give you an example - here is a shot I did in very low lighting (moonlights) with a long exposure. You can see how the yellow at the top of the sun coral sort of runs into each other.


IMG_3930

I would suggest the following to help isolate the issue.

1) Make sure you camera setting is capturing the images at the highest detail. In my canon (T1i) - its under quality and you pick the setting that gives you the largest file size. This will reduce the amount of compression (which introduces distortion)

2) Take a number of "stepped exposure shots"; i.e. take 3 photos - one as you would normally, one which is underexposed by 1 f/stop and another which is under exposed by 2 f/stops. See whether the underexposed shots solve your problem.

3) See if reducing the ISO setting will fix your problem. (from your shot I really don't think its an ISO problem otherwise the whole shot would be grainy).

Hope that helps!
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