How to properly plumb a tank?

-=James=- · #1 11-28-2011, 11:45 PM

What is the correct/best way to plumb a tank? First, let me say that I have no experience in plumbing. I even underestimated the cost of all the materials.
Basically, I need to know how to connect everything after the bulkhead.

My bulkhead is a slip/thread. Thread side in the tank, slip side going to sump. Heres what I currently have planned:

I will be using union valves (after I found out they exist) but use this pic as a guide:
Bulkhead -> union valve -> sump

I would have to use those 2 white connectors (at the end of the union and ball valve) on the union valve since its double threaded.
Then I connect the slip side of those connectors to PVC pipe, which connects to the bulkhead.

BUT, an important factor is for me to be able to disconnect the bulkhead from whatever attached to it just in case I need to remove it, so glueing the PVC to the bulkhead might not be a good idea.
Maybe I can buy thread/thread bulkheads?

How does everyone plumb their tank? Should I not bother trying to be able to disconnect everything? Thoughts and ideas please!

Thanks in advance

Ryan · #2 11-29-2011, 12:00 AM

I lee lots of pvc pipe between fittings so if I need to disconnect I have lots of room for cutting and reglueing.

mark · #3 11-29-2011, 02:08 AM

there's true union valves.

Don't forget though plumbing above the bulkhead rather important for noise control (herbie, bean, durso, stockmans...)

Hustler · #4 11-29-2011, 02:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ryan

I lee lots of pvc pipe between fittings so if I need to disconnect I have lots of room for cutting and reglueing.

I always remeber this.... when im pulling out the sawzall

Give a good 2" between the important fitting if possible more....

e46er · #5 12-11-2011, 02:29 AM

honestly i just glue them no unions at bulkheads

bulkheads are cheap unions expensive and unless your moving the tank on a regular basis ill spend the $20 bux later for new bulkheads and a couple couplings

you dont need shut offs on your drain lines
i dont have them on return lines either just 1 at the inlet and outlet of the pump for maintaince
i have 3 reactors running off my return pump(SOOOOO much easier) and those 3 lines have shut offs

lastlight · #6 12-11-2011, 03:38 AM

I never bother leaving pipe gaps but this is good advice. I don't bother with unions but I do buy schedule 80 true union ball valves. they'll turn smoother much longer than the crappy white guys and you can disconnect the plumbing where the valve is.

When do you really need to disconnect everything? If you want to do so make sure you're able to turn the entire lower leg of plumbing otherwise the threaded connection won't be much good.

Seth81 · #7 12-14-2011, 04:56 PM

My pump creates lots of vibration that was being transfered through all my rigid PVC pipping into my sump and also into the wall, and throught the whole house

. So I would suggest trying to incorporate some small section of flexible braided tubing or a flexible coupling in both the suction and discharge of your return pump.

globaldesigns · #8 12-14-2011, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lastlight

I never bother leaving pipe gaps but this is good advice. I don't bother with unions but I do buy schedule 80 true union ball valves. they'll turn smoother much longer than the crappy white guys and you can disconnect the plumbing where the valve is.

When do you really need to disconnect everything? If you want to do so make sure you're able to turn the entire lower leg of plumbing otherwise the threaded connection won't be much good.

Please take Bretts advice... I had the cheapy ball valves, and just a couple months ago, I had to cut apart my plumbing as one ball valve actually broke at the handle. Kinda scary, cutting things apart, as plumbing was also cracking when I tried to cut. Got it all put back together with the good valves as Brett stated, with also unions, for easy access, replacements, etc.

I only replaced the return plumbing valves, but the drains are still the cheap ones. I don't ever turn them, but use to adjust them for flow... But you can see that the handles are bent, as they never turned easy, and as time went on they got worse. They now run full open, and I will only turn them if in an emergency, but I do see myself replacing these also one day.

Don't cheap out!

globaldesigns · #9 12-14-2011, 06:38 PM

Oh Yeah, Western Pump is the place to go... When I was there recently, their PVC selection was HUGE, they had it all, and the pricing is great!

jostafew · #10 12-14-2011, 07:21 PM

Good advise from previous posts. May I suggest placing the ball valve ABOVE the union so that you can seal off the tank above before disconnecting the plumbing below? Also it may be a good idea to change from rigid PVC to flex or preferably hose for the last leg to the return pump, that section of hose will limit the vibrations from the return pump transmitting through the rest of the system.

As mentioned I would leave atleast a couple inches of pipe between the bulkhead and the next fitting so that you have some meat to cut off and modify the plumbing below if necessary (changes, or if you need to pull the tank off the stand). After that keep things as compact as possible and just glue (PVC cement) everything together that's a slip fitting. In the event that you have to make changes to the plumbing a possible few bucks in fittings will be a small price to pay to have some extra working space in the cabinet. Threads are OK but they can creep salt if you don't thread tape the snot out of them and are pointless if there are any 90's in the line (probably won't be able to rotate the fittings to remove them). Slip fittings will be more compact and easier to assemble. Don't forget to measure twice and cut once!