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  #11  
Old 05-15-2011, 04:48 AM
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One thing about Kevins tanks is he has probably way more flow, much bigger systems, there is no sand bed to hold high levels of nutrients & tanks are mostly coral or fish only except for a few.

Maybe you might need to change out a couple bulbs to higher k ratings, look at the bulb and see what make they are.
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  #12  
Old 05-15-2011, 11:54 AM
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Default Re lights

Your probably right because the bulbs came with the fixture so I
Sure they are cheap...would I need to change only the whites, or the blues too? To what rating?? Thanks
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  #13  
Old 05-15-2011, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Grizz View Post
You need to improve your water quality, reduce your nitrates & nitrites, reduce feeding so there is no leftover uneaten food hitting the bottom of your tank & more water changes. What size of tank and skimmer do you have?
+1

What do you have for flow in your tank? You have a big setup which I guess would require quite a bit of flow.

Have you bought anything recently from anyone/anywhere that had some live rock attached? I know when I got my first nasty dose of cyano it directly corresponded with an introduction from another tank that I later found out had crazy cyano problems....

I agree with what everyone says about maintaining a healthy tank so it cant thrive etc but my personal opinion is if you have the worlds best tank and someone introduces cyano to it you still may be up the creek because cyano is tenacious....

P
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  #14  
Old 05-15-2011, 05:10 PM
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what do you feed your fish, how old is the setup and what do you have for flow in the tank?
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  #15  
Old 05-15-2011, 06:02 PM
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Your tank is still cycling. Too many new additions too quickly.

Let the system stabalize. Have patience...
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  #16  
Old 05-15-2011, 07:20 PM
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the cyano comes from increased nutrients and although you are testing for these nutrients they may test to zero because the cyano is using up the available nutrients to make testing illegible. the bubbles are a cause of the lack of flow/ oxygen. usually increased flow and manual removal is best. turkey baster seems to suck up the majority. cut down feeding and be sure to rinse frozen foods as the preservatives used for packaging can feed into the nutient source.lastly water change religously. And if you are not already, run carbon and a phosphate reactor. good luck
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  #17  
Old 05-16-2011, 12:25 AM
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Default re lights

ok so i have two 12000 k whites and two blue 54watts oddysea....
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  #18  
Old 05-16-2011, 12:33 AM
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Default re cycling

My parameters have all been at 0 for weeks....can my tank still be cycling???
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  #19  
Old 05-16-2011, 12:35 AM
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Default re flow

Ive got 2 koralia 4 powerheads pushing in one 90 gallon....
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  #20  
Old 05-16-2011, 12:41 AM
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Dom, your tank is fairly new -what 3-4 months ? Fishytime was looking for that detail because that's a big factor. Established tanks have different/more stable chemistry.

There is often no "one thing" that causes tank problems; it is most often a combination of factors so being painfully specific when asking for help is crucial -and even then, unless someone has seen your tank recently, you should always take advice (especially if it comes from ME ) with a grain of (reef) salt since they don't have the 'feel' for your tank that, really, only the tank owner can have. Of course, the problem is that as noobs, our 'feel' hasn't yet fully developed.

This will come in time. It's frustrating though.
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