Tylers ~300Gal System Build. *The epic failure*

[zum14]

So not sure exactly how many gallons this system is going to be as I not found a tank yet for this. Im looking used and am going to try to pick something up when im in edmonton here in 2 weeks. Basically what I have been thinking about lately is the closed loop system and return system, really trying to figure out a good flow pattern to eliminate powerheads and provide as close to nature as possible. This is basically a test tank scaled down to try things before I invest in the large tank for the living room. I thought I knew a bit about saltwater and started a tank but we all know how that goes. Ideally I would like an external coast to coast overflow. Im more or less looking for opinions on the closed loop system and return system. Please keep in mind this is still on paper and is in pencil for corrections. Other systems are basically going to be the same as others. Metal Halides (preferably the tank will be large enough to use one of my 400W pendants I picked up from a fellow canreefer) and T5HO for actinics and purples if I want. Another thing I would like to play with before the big build. Large skimmer. Reactors and such for carbon, gfo. I think I will be trying the Apex controller. Tunze auto top off. Ill get more into those details later. So this is basically what I was thinking of trying to pull off.



So this does not show exact placement of plumbing as I will need to orient them so they will actuate properly to change the flow pattern and the upper spray bar will have to be just under water for when it is used as the suction side (another beauty of an overflow as DT water level will not vary. I will use 1 or 2 electric actuators with brackets to attach the valves together and timers and such. Haven't sorted out the electrical side exactly yet. I imagine it will be pretty fun. I also have not sorted out flow yet till I know tank size. That will also dictate pump size as well which will also be variable to be able to simulate the slowing and speeding up of tidal flow. Im also thinking of adding in another pipe for introduction of plankton, rotifers, other food and such but will get to that later if the idea is not scrapped. Im going to use slip bulkheads inside the tank so that I can pull the pipe out and apart for easy cleaning as I am sure a snail or something will manage to work there way through the spray bars and well im sure the spray holes will clog over time so ease of cleaning or even replacement is key. The box you see before the pump is going to be a sponge or filter sock basically to stop any foreign items from hitting the pump. Also since im sure everyones wondering why I would want to look at an ugly spray bar in the front of my tank Im actually planning on having a 30 or 36" tank for the big tank and will use a piece of trim along the bottom of the tank. It wont show the sandbed directly but I think will be an ok compromise. Usually there is just algae there that I cant get as im afraid of picking up a piece of sand and scratching the glass. (not a big deal with this tank but will be in the big tank)



This is kind of what im thinking the tidal flow will look like in the tank. The large black area should be the main flow of water. Im using a low spraybar in the back which im thinking will be mostly hidden by the reef so an ok comprimise with lighter flow to eliminate a dead zone behind the rock. It will be reduced flow but enough to keep water moving. I am a little concerned about the turbulence that may be created in the zone in question. Might be nothing too.



This is what im thinking of using for my return plumbing. It will be directed at the top of the rock for an sps area (simulated waves). Tidal flow more for the lps and softies. What I have been wondering is with the tidal flow in a high to low tide flow, (water going from upper spray bar to lower bar) and having the water rise up and hit the overflow that is behind the upper spray bar from the return plumbing system. Not too sure what that water flow would look like to the overflow and the only thing im concerned about is that it may not be the best for grabbing that ideal upper column of water for better skimming. Well thats all I can type for now got to go take the puppies for there walk.

[zum14]

Well update. So I was able to pick up a tank while in edmonton. It was close though. Long story. It was advertised as a 120gal-4'X2'X2' but when I got down there it was actually a 90Gal-48"X18"X24". I got some money off and well lets just say if fit the weekend. So I wont be able to run T5's unless I get different pendant holders. Although it seems a lot of people dont run actinics with halides anyways so we will see how it goes.



The helper in the backround there.

This is what I did today for the coast to coast overflow. Going to get a diamond coated burr and clean up the corners and edges.



I think im just going to cut grooves in the trim as it runs down to the bottom of the cuts. I dont really see much different then getting some acrylic fingers and glueing them in. Both will be a pain to clean and will need it often. That or Im going to just cut out where the overflow is and maybe use something else. Still thinking about it.




Soo. The other thing I have come up with is another possibility for the closed loop plumbing since I found that controlling shutoffs will be very expensive and rigging some manual shutoffs with actuators would also be pricey. My only issue with the setup im thinking now is that I need to know if there will be less restriction going through the spray bars then the pump and filterbox. Otherwise it will just loop below the tank. Im still working on it as well. Other issue is varying the flow. Not such a huge deal id rather try to figure out flow switching first. Anyways heres the pic of that.




So what im working on now is figuring out what size bulkheads I should be getting. Flow rate and all that. Also anyone think I should be adding a glass brace across the top as there is a plastic one on the trim and I realize they dont always do much but with me cutting the tank for the overflows im kinda on the fence. I probably will for the cost of it. Also does anyone think there is a problem with drilling two holes in the back of the tank near the bottom and two holes in the bottom front corners of the tank? I was kind of thinking of drilling 4 in the back (one in all corners) but was thinking it may be a little excessive. Still thinking. Or maybe four holes in the bottom? One in each corner? That sounds better. I probably wont do the two in the back at the top still as it would probably be too close to the overflows and being at the top its not a huge deal to plumb and I wont have to pay for a couple of extra overflows. Already going to be like 7 in there with the overflow box.

[whatcaneyedo]

Center braces are a real pain to keep clean and work around. Maybe add some euro bracing for piece of mind though.

What tool did you use to cut the coast to coast overflows? Got a picture? Great job by the way. I wish I had more experience with glass so that I could contribute but so far I've mostly only played with acrylic and wood.

[zum14]

Originally Posted by whatcaneyedo

Center braces are a real pain to keep clean and work around. Maybe add some euro bracing for piece of mind though.

What tool did you use to cut the coast to coast overflows? Got a picture? Great job by the way. I wish I had more experience with glass so that I could contribute but so far I've mostly only played with acrylic and wood.

Thanks. I just went to princess auto and in the carbide burr/diamond hole saw/diamond burr bits isle in the back near the air fittings there are diamond blades for your dremel. They were a whopping $8.99 for 4. I used the pencil attatchment as I had the wife holding the hose for constant water flushing and cooling and well a dremel wont handle the water. Didnt take long. I need to get the diamond burr set too for $10 to round the corners and clean up the edges. If i do anymore Id suggest going almost the whole way through and then meeting on the other side as I had a little bit of chipping happening when I went all the way through one side. Ill snap a few pics of the tools and such here tonight.

[whatcaneyedo]

Cool. I already have that set of four 1" diamond wheels. I used to use them for fragging before I got my other saws.

[zum14]

Brick wall! No plumbing shops in town have slip fit bulkhead fittings. All threaded. Looks like an online order to delay me. Damn. Going to try for the glass for the overflow. That shouldnt be too bad. Haha.....shouldnt.

[whatcaneyedo]

Karen has two extra 1-1/2" bulkheads from J&L http://www.jlaquatics.com/product/pl...1+2%22%29.html that she doesnt need and will probably sell. If you want her contact information I can find it for you. While you're ordering bulkheads you might want to grab some gate valves if you're going to need any of those... as no one in town sells them either. I think you can at least get true union ball valves at Andrew Sherrit. If you think I might have any plumbing bits leftover that you could use you're welcome to come scavenge through my extras. Actually I'm probably going to bring most of those up to Allans if he will take them for his store.

[whatcaneyedo]

I was just visiting Allan to see how his new project is coming along and he has a small selection of bulkheads including 1".

[zum14]

Originally Posted by whatcaneyedo

I was just visiting Allan to see how his new project is coming along and he has a small selection of bulkheads including 1".

Thanks. Ill have to email him. Do you happen to know if either karens or allans are threaded on the inside? There are lots in town at corestock or andrew sherrit but all they have is inside threaded. I need inside slip so I can remove the spray bars and clean/replace them as they get algaed up. They suggested adapters but if I go that route the spray bars will be 4" off the bottom. Ill probably end up ordering them from bulkreefsupply as they have the mesh for the top I want to build and have valves and such as well (thanks for that reminder, there really is nothing in this town for that stuff. Its fun to watch people look at you funny when you tell them what your building) The other thing is in town they will be like 10-15$ each bulkhead too vs 5$ on brs.

[whatcaneyedo]

Karen's two are the ones shown in the link that I posted and you'll have to ask Allan what he has because I didn't see them all.