Canreef Aquatics Bulletin Board  

Go Back   Canreef Aquatics Bulletin Board > General > DIY

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 11-29-2015, 06:03 PM
Myka's Avatar
Myka Myka is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Saskatoon, SK.
Posts: 11,268
Myka will become famous soon enough
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gregzz4 View Post
I like the sleeve idea.
What about using an existing clear reactor and just wrap it in white paper. Easier to see inside with a flip of some scotch tape.
Thanks for the idea, and I was tossing around that idea too, but the tank I want to use it on doesn't have a fish room, so I don't want the light leaking to the sump area because I don't want to be cleaning the skimmer of algae all the time. I'm going to try to design it in a way that it's easy to open and take a peek - I'm thinking a SCH80 union, but I don't know if they come in 6 or 8". Going to see what I can figure out. It looks like I can get an 8" to 3" PVC reducer bushing and then a 3" union. These are pricey part though! Maybe not the best option is the opening is smaller than the reactor diameter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mike31154 View Post
Your link comes up as a multimeter??
Oops, fixed.
__________________
~ Mindy

SPS fanatic.


Last edited by Myka; 11-29-2015 at 06:13 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-29-2015, 06:16 PM
Myka's Avatar
Myka Myka is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Saskatoon, SK.
Posts: 11,268
Myka will become famous soon enough
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Myka View Post
I'm going to try to design it in a way that it's easy to open and take a peek - I'm thinking a SCH80 union, but I don't know if they come in 6 or 8". Going to see what I can figure out. It looks like I can get an 8" to 3" PVC reducer bushing and then a 3" union. These are pricey part though! Maybe not the best option is the opening is smaller than the reactor diameter.
Actually, I'm thinking a cap on the end with nylon thumb screws is probably the best option for this large diameter (and a heck of a lot cheap to boot).

Use this for the bottom:


Actually, I could use that for the top too, and then cut a 7" hole in the top of the 8" cap which will give me enough space to drill and tap some holes for the nylon finger screws. Then use a third one and cut the flange off so it's just a flat piece of plastic for the actual lid. Then I'll need to drill it to insert the quartz sleeve, and figure out how to mount that along with the rack for the chaeto. I think I'll use LED because I like the low voltage around water.
__________________
~ Mindy

SPS fanatic.


Last edited by Myka; 11-29-2015 at 06:21 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-30-2015, 01:57 AM
Scythanith's Avatar
Scythanith Scythanith is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Saskatchewan
Posts: 1,088
Scythanith is on a distinguished road
Default

One of the claim to fames they are talking about is a thermal conductive fluid that is encased within the sleeve that helps pull heat from the LED structure and up to the heat sink at the top.

I have spoke with them about the PB Arid and I almost bought one. The only thing that scared me away was the $600 price tag
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 05:17 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.