Moving houses, need opinions on floor bracing

[WarDog]

Originally Posted by Sasq40

What's everyone using for posting photos now, I used to use Photobucket but last time I tried posting pics it was paid only. Been a while lol

My current plan is to just get 2 telepost on sidewalk blocks under the joist that the front of the fish tank is on. Joist are 2x10 and roughly 14 ft long

I use Flikr. It's free for up to 1000 photos.

If by 'sidewalk blocks', you mean some type of concrete paver, I wouldn't use that. It will shatter. Instead, place your jacks on top of some wood. It will absorb and distribute weight more evenly. A couple of 2 x 10's @ 12 - 24 inches under each jack will absorb and distribute weight more evenly. A few nails to secure the jacks will also help with any future shear stresses.

[Sasq40]

Originally Posted by WarDog

I use Flikr. It's free for up to 1000 photos.

If by 'sidewalk blocks', you mean some type of concrete paver, I wouldn't use that. It will shatter. Instead, place your jacks on top of some wood. It will absorb and distribute weight more evenly.

I'll post the photo I got from when I was at the house last. The only reason I say side walk block is to just get the wood off the dirt, but now I'm thinking sistering the 2 joist under the tank, maybe a few after, using something like a 4x4 concrete base with a 4x4 and one of those threaded elevated post braces to get it nice and snug

[WarDog]

Originally Posted by Sasq40

I'll post the photo I got from when I was at the house last. The only reason I say side walk block is to just get the wood off the dirt, but now I'm thinking sistering the 2 joist under the tank, maybe a few after, using something like a 4x4 concrete base with a 4x4 and one of those threaded elevated post braces to get it nice and snug

IMHO concrete is overkill, and costly. A wood base under the jacks is plenty. You can always place some vapor barrier between the wood and soil.

[Sasq40]

Originally Posted by WarDog

IMHO concrete is overkill, and costly. A wood base under the jacks is plenty. You can always place some vapor barrier between the wood and soil.

I auctally have a few concrete desk posts that I had from a pergola thing I built but took down to move to the new place, so I already have the concrete and 4x4 to make posts. I auctally sent a email to Kevin @ African-cichlid.com and have based my current plan on his suggestions, with some tweaks using material I have on had.

What my current plan is to make another 2x10 beam that will span the center of the room, with 4x4s on cement post bases with a adjustable base on top to make sure my new beam is nice and tight. once this is done I need to move onto the sump system. I plan to run either sumpless till I finish the new setup or my current sump setup if I can save the plumbing.

My goal here is to have as silent of a tank as possible as this will be in our living room

I'm thinking of during a bean animal with pipes coming from behind and use my current corner overflows as the drains. Am I correct in assuming as long as my sump is lower then my lowest drain in will drain?

Next question is what should I use as a sump? I'd prefer to use something that can be closed up as my current plan is to stick it in the corner of my garage, which I use for wood and metal projects so there is often dirt in the air. Another option is for me to build a small room in the garage corner thst will contain the sump equipment. Then I guess I need to figure out what kind of hose / pipe setup will be best

[Ryanerickson]

Total overkill in my opinion but if it helps yeah sleep at night why not.

[Sasq40]

Originally Posted by Ryanerickson

Total overkill in my opinion but if it helps yeah sleep at night why not.

Over kill is better then a wet floor lol, there used to be a big tv stand with doors there and when you walked by the doors would shake,so there's some play there

[Frogger]

Originally Posted by Sasq40

Am I correct in assuming as long as my sump is lower then my lowest drain in will drain?

Yes water will always find a level and it will drain if it is lower, however as I stated before when installing drainage you have to maintain a minimum of 1 to 2% over the entire distance. If there are any low points there is the potential for debris accumulating and eventually blocking the line. Blocked line = wet floor. A 1" main line and a 3/4" backup line will not move a lot of water if you only have a 1% grade.

What the distance and we can calculate out the minimum elevation change required?

[Sasq40]

Originally Posted by Frogger

Yes water will always find a level and it will drain if it is lower, however as I stated before when installing drainage you have to maintain a minimum of 1 to 2% over the entire distance. If there are any low points there is the potential for debris accumulating and eventually blocking the line. Blocked line = wet floor. A 1" main line and a 3/4" backup line will not move a lot of water if you only have a 1% grade.

What the distance and we can calculate out the minimum elevation change required?

Let's see if this works
Fish tank layout by Kael Short, on Flickr

[gregzz4]

If you really want a sump in the garage, a 1' drop and 8' away means you'll need about an 8" drop. More is better. 1/8" per foot is close to code but I prefer to go overkill.
The bottom of your drains need to be, in this case, at least 8" higher than your planned sump. If you can, put your tank on a taller stand.
I was having flow issues with my old setup. In my case, my drain pipes were too small @ 1"
My bulkheads used to be 30" from the floor and now are 40".
I run at least 6' long and use 1-1/2" pipe. Everything has been great for nearly 3 years now.

As for your structural stuff, if you're going to put footings down in the soil, you'll need to dig down at a minimum of 24". 12" is for the footing and another 12" is to clear the frost line. In my opinion it's not worth it. Don't use jacks without a proper concrete footing. It will fail with frost heave if you don't dig it down and pour a proper bed.
Sistering the joists is a good enough plan as you won't get much deflection without them, so I don't see much floor movement once you add material.
Ensure you sister properly. Both sides of each joist need material, and go 100% past your required area.
Use glue and decent screws and leave it alone for a few days to dry.
I'll bet sistering is all you need.

Good luck !!