BeanAnimal - NOT self priming like it should!

MicroTankin · #1 09-13-2011, 11:05 PM

Anyway here is my new beananimal overflow. It is on a 26 gallon bowfront. 3/4 inch plumbing. I know the plumbing is small but it should handle 600+ gallons an hour at full siphon and right now I only have 200+ circulating till I get a new pump. I am wondering if my "straight" T's are the issue. I did not realize most ppl use a sanitary T. These T's have a 90 degree elbow like bottom with a straight portion coming off the top. Like the one here: http://www.google.ca/imgres?q=beanan...w=1024&bih=614
I attached pictures of my set up. Middle pipe is full siphon with ball valve (wish I had just bought a gate valve), far left is secondary. Pls help!

Doc_Polit · #2 09-13-2011, 11:21 PM

How far below the water level is your output tube in your sump?

If it is more than an inch or so, that would cause it. Many other reefers have run into that same issue.

shootingstar · #3 09-13-2011, 11:56 PM

They do work but take some "tweaking" to get balanced, and once you get that "sweet-spot" you have to keep it...an ATO is a must in my opinion.

I could be wrong but it looks like you might have one of the elbows upside down, not sure, kind of hard to tell from the pics.

Main and secondary siphon _ elbows point down
Emergency overflow - elbow points up

Length below water in sump is also a factor, play around with some sleeves before you glue anything and see if that is the issue.

You also need an air tube from secondary to overflow box to start secondary as full siphon to prevent an overflow in case an air bubble is temporarily trapped in main siphon and needs to be pushed out.....I don't see one??

mseepman · #4 09-14-2011, 12:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shootingstar

You also need an air tube from secondary to overflow box to start secondary as full siphon to prevent an overflow in case an air bubble is temporarily trapped in main siphon and needs to be pushed out.....I don't see one??

This is important...really need this for the failsafe to work.

ScubaSteve · #5 09-14-2011, 01:11 AM

I think I see it. Tough to perfectly tel from the pics but...

As mentioned previously, the line with the valve on the far right should be the full siphon. Turn that elbow down. Turn the others up. There is some debate to whether the secondary shoud be up or down but personally I don't think it matters as much as the full siphon. You aren't getting a prime because it's pointing up and getting air in the water column.

Also make sure that your caps are air tight. If they are leaking air, you're not going to get a seal.

Also, as mentioned before, drill a hole for the airline on the secondary.

madkeenreefer · #6 09-14-2011, 01:37 AM

Others have touched on it and I agree,
your secondary needs to have an air intake to stop it from going full syphon and subsiquently emptying the overflow box and then breaking your primary syphon.
( I imagine this is why you have the secondary intake turned upwards)

MicroTankin · #7 09-15-2011, 05:47 PM

Thanks guys for your Help and Suggestions. I apprieciate it all! sorry the pictures where hard to interpret I was in a hurry when I took them. The overflow system is working great now. I think the straight T's just take more time to settle into the "sweet spot" after a reset. I get lots of surging for about 30sec to a minute until it settles down - but I can live with that. It seemed to just start working properly on its own last night. Just needed to break in I guess. Anyway I will post better pictures and details on how I have it all running and set up this weekend. And just for everyones peace of mind I did have a hole drilled in the cap of the secondary I just did not have the air line hooked up to it yet. Anyway more to come! thanks All!

madkeenreefer · #8 09-15-2011, 08:40 PM

Glad to hear you got it sorted