|
#1
|
|||||
|
|||||
Today I did a 15% Water change while I cleaned my sump.
Nitrates are at 25ppm. I also added a CUC. 1 fighting conch 4 Turbo Snails 4 Babylon Snails 2 Top Crown Snails 10 Hermits. Should I increase my CUC? Thursday: I'll do a 30% Water change and add one ampule of Biodigest and one of Biotim. *I read about the disadvantages or carbon.. So I was thinking maybe I could just run my phosban reactor for 2h every 3 days? Any input? Last edited by dynamite; 07-11-2011 at 06:38 AM. |
#2
|
|||||
|
|||||
pull out those hermits - they kill more snails than do any good.
add; 20 ceriths (or 40 dwarf ceriths) - keeps glass/rock clean 20 turbos - keeps glass/rock clean 20 narisuss - keep sand bed clean. |
#3
|
|||||
|
|||||
pretty much everyone runs carbon though very few go through HLLE disease (i think you are referring the recent study on this correlation.)
if you are not keen on running ti 24/7 - maybe run it only for a few days before you do a water change. |
#4
|
|||||
|
|||||
Quote:
Quote:
*Little update* I've got a skinny Yellow Tang a few months ago and I keep trying to get him fat but it doesn't seem to work.. All my fish are literally obese but somehow my Yellow Tang won't gain any weight While I was feeding them today I realized that my Yellow Tang has Black Black Ich for the second time and it's just weird cuz there's no stress in the tank, all my other fish look amazing and the water parameters are good but the nitrates (20ppm), so I'm guessing it's because he's underweight I'm gonna buy a veggie clip on Friday and I hope it helps him to get some weight. I also don't feel like destroying my tank to threat him, will a cleaner wrasse and cleaner shrimp do the trick? Thanks! Last edited by dynamite; 07-13-2011 at 03:14 AM. |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
I personally find that conches do a way better job of sand cleaning than Nassarius snails ever do and you don't need that many.
|
#6
|
|||||
|
|||||
Quote:
UPDATE: today I did a 30% water change, I dosed one ampule of Biodigest and one of Biotim. One of my friends gave me his Elegance Coral that wasn't doing good in his tank and was closed and it's starting to open in my tank He actually opens more at night that during the day. He's under 4 T5's and he'll probably be under them for a month (until I get ATI fixture), I have a MH fixture with two 250w 14k bulbs and 4t5's but it gets WAYYYY TO HOT! so since last year I've been only using the t5's. Will the elegance coral be doing fine under the 4 T5's or should I turn on the MH? I saw some posts when people had them under 4 T5's. Observations: I didn't have to clean my front glass at all I added a small CUC but the sand was WHITE!!!! For the 1st time in ages my sand was white after a week lol I'll test my nitrates and Phosphates when I come back from work and I'll also post pictures |
#7
|
|||||
|
|||||
I would add more good porous liverock into your tank as I think there is not enough for the filtration you need. It seems from the photo that you don't have much of it. I would add some totally cured totoka or other very porous liverock so that denitrification can take place in your tank and your nitrates would be lower. You could put some macro algae as well to feed on the nitrates.
|
#8
|
|||||
|
|||||
Quote:
I even saw tanks with less rock than mine, like the japanese tanks, they have the minimal ammount of LR and I really ike the Minimalist aquascape and the open look, well in the future everything will be cover with corals, I may add some more LR but I'm not sure about it. **** I checked my Nitrates and they're at 25ppm Phosphates 0.05ppm A few pictures. Sorry for the quality The pictures were taken with my iphone. |