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#1
03-07-2013, 07:30 PM
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Screwed up silicone job. Need DIY help
Need help from DIY experts. I built a small rimless tank yesterday and I made an absolute mess of the inside seam because i think the room was too hot and the stuff tacked up too quickly. So my plan is to strip out the inside seam, re-tape and re-apply. I mad a smoothing jiig out of a piece of wood so this time I should get an even seam.
So is this a good idea? Are there any negative consequences of doing this? I was just thinking that the silicone between the glass is attatched to he silicone inside the tank and that by removing it and applying new silicone may weaken the tank. The tank is quite small, 26X11X11 so the preasure is not much. The guy at the glass shop did an absolute beautiful job on polishing the glass and cutting the pieces, I don't want it to go to waste.
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#4
03-07-2013, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
When re-doing the tank, run tape about 1/8" from the seam. After you stick the panels together, run a nice bead on the inside of the seams, wet your figure with a bit of soapy water and run it along the seam. This will give you a very clean looking seam and prevent any screw-ups due to the silicone setting. Peel the tape off after it has set a little bit. Now you have pro seams and super clean and straight edges to the silicone.
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#5
03-07-2013, 08:19 PM
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Just tore apart and resealed a tank last evening, a 20 gal.
If the glass pieces are now of structure and make up a solid tank just do this: Grab a razor blade and run along the glass both pains to cut out the silicone that is not directly in the joint. Make sure everything is nice and clean. Next tape with something like painters tape/masking tape. Throw an even bead of silicone and then use your finger. If you want to use a bead tool make sure it won't scratch the glass. Not really sure why it didn't work out as the ambient room temp will not cause a problem as long as YOUR QUICK.
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#6
03-07-2013, 08:38 PM
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I've re-sealed many tanks without taking the panels apart. I just razorbladed all of the old silicone on the joints, used rubbing alcohol to clean it well, masked and siliconed. Worked great every time for me. I think the seal inbetween the panels should be fine, no need to take it all apart if you don't want to.
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#7
03-07-2013, 09:16 PM
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Scubasteve: Excellent idea, I have some only violin strings hanging around someplace. use them just like a cheese cutter hehe
CK: I made a jig out of 1/4 wood cut into a square with a 45 degree angle cut into one corner. That is the problem, I don't think I was quick enough. I also cheaped out and got the squeeze bottle silicone so I was funbling with that. I now have the 10oz bottle with the gun. Fishy: I have heard people say rubbing alcohol and acetone. Acetone supposedly completely evaperates. Do you suggest rubbing alcohol because acetone might no be reef safe or it might damage the silicone?
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#8
03-08-2013, 07:37 PM
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So after 2 hours I got it apart. 3 violin strings (didnt last long before breaking) an exacto knife, 3 razor blades and an algae scraper. The funny thing is, the most efficient tool was the aglae scraper (kent brand I believe). Some of the seams just had no room for even the violin strings to get betweem but the thin metal on the kent scraper just sliced right through it.
Anybody else trying this, I suggest you run a razor blade along the seams and go as deep as you can and then finish off with a scraper. Now it is a matter of getting the silicone off the glass and this is turning out to be an even bigger pain than taking the tank apart.
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#9
03-08-2013, 11:41 PM
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once you start re siliconing methyl hydrate will wipe away any mishaps as long as it's still wet.
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