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Old 11-29-2013, 12:18 PM
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Thanks Eli. So I should cycle in the tubs its in now compared with my tank? Would one not then loose the bacterial colony after removing the rock for a dry build and shape in the main tank? I imagine it needs to go into a tank of water direct from the tubs.
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Old 11-29-2013, 12:37 PM
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I'll be honest, I rinsed my rocks and dumped them in.

30-40lbs dry rock
100+ existing established rock
230gallon + sump

No problems, no breakouts, etc. Mua ha ha. Mind you I have a tiny bioload in the system, only a couple of clowns and a handful of chromis.
  #3  
Old 11-29-2013, 02:21 PM
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I'd be more interested in the phosphate readings after 3 weeks.

I have my Pukani curing with a few pieces of new live rock. The two 30% water changes so far have come out pee yellow. I'm wishing I'd kept a little HOB skimmer for this process. Hopefully my new 150 gallon Concept tank will be here soon and I can move the rock to cure in a larger volume of water.

The rock looks fantastic BTW. Can't wait to get aquascaping!
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Old 11-29-2013, 04:11 PM
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Good read wish I read this a few years ago
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Old 12-01-2013, 04:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reefer Rob View Post
I'd be more interested in the phosphate readings after 3 weeks.

I have my Pukani curing with a few pieces of new live rock. The two 30% water changes so far have come out pee yellow. I'm wishing I'd kept a little HOB skimmer for this process. Hopefully my new 150 gallon Concept tank will be here soon and I can move the rock to cure in a larger volume of water.

The rock looks fantastic BTW. Can't wait to get aquascaping!
I have done phosphates tests I will post results as soon as I get back from the warehouse tomorrow,...

I kept testing the phosphates from my system with the rocks cycling in there with results of 0 phosphates that maybe results of the pod soup I keep in one of my sumps..
  #6  
Old 12-09-2013, 03:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reefer Rob View Post
I'd be more interested in the phosphate readings after 3 weeks.

I have my Pukani curing with a few pieces of new live rock. The two 30% water changes so far have come out pee yellow. I'm wishing I'd kept a little HOB skimmer for this process. Hopefully my new 150 gallon Concept tank will be here soon and I can move the rock to cure in a larger volume of water.

The rock looks fantastic BTW. Can't wait to get aquascaping!
The readout of phosphates throughout the curing process was sitting at 0.8 to 0.9 ppm
As I ran HC-gfo after the initial curing and now getting 0 readout.
Phosphates never played a role intu the bacteria growth for the curing process.
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Old 06-08-2014, 04:29 AM
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Eli,

Any concerns with running Carbon and HC-GFO from day 1 of curing the rock in the tank? Or should I wait before adding those 2 online?
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  #8  
Old 06-08-2014, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDigital View Post
Eli,

Any concerns with running Carbon and HC-GFO from day 1 of curing the rock in the tank? Or should I wait before adding those 2 online?
There really is no issues running them from days one except it's a waste of money in my opinion.

Last edited by eli@fijireefrock.com; 08-15-2014 at 05:08 AM.
  #9  
Old 11-30-2013, 04:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug View Post
Thanks Eli. So I should cycle in the tubs its in now compared with my tank? Would one not then loose the bacterial colony after removing the rock for a dry build and shape in the main tank? I imagine it needs to go into a tank of water direct from the tubs.
the only reason I cured my dry frock in a tub is because I ran out of tanks

you could by all means after after curing place it dry and play with the rock
for as long as needed till you get the look you need.
I am planning to adding the water from the tub to the main system when its time to move the rock.
Nitrifying bacteria has a better survival rate out in the open with wet rock
than any other pod simply of their size.
  #10  
Old 11-30-2013, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eli@fijireefrock.com View Post
the only reason I cured my dry frock in a tub is because I ran out of tanks

you could by all means after after curing place it dry and play with the rock
for as long as needed till you get the look you need.
I am planning to adding the water from the tub to the main system when its time to move the rock.
Nitrifying bacteria has a better survival rate out in the open with wet rock
than any other pod simply of their size.

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aquarium rock, aquascaping, branch rock, calcium, carbonate, chemicals, dry rock, fiji, fiji premium, fiji reef rock, glue, live rock, magnesium, marco rocks, photo, pukani, reef, reef rock, salt water tank, saltwater aquarium, shelf rock, tonga, tukani


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